Buzz Coil Wiring

Home Forum Ask A Member Buzz Coil Wiring

This topic contains 9 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Tubs Tubs 1 week ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Buccaneer
    Buccaneer
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 2682
    Topics: 754
    #157607

    Trying to wire up my batter / buzz coil box for the
    Wisconsin RBM wtih the homemade timer.
    Can I just run two wires from the box,
    (that contains the buzz coil and battery)
    they being, a “Com” wire to the timer,
    and the Spark Plug wire, or do I need to
    run a separate ground wire to the motor?

    Another words, will the spark plug base complete
    the ground to “light off” the buzz coil?
    Thanks.

    P.S.- I tried twice to make my drawing larger, but then
    it was too big to be accepted. 🙁
    ……. but, if you click on the image, and then click on it
    again, it gets “Big”.

    Prepare to be boarded!

    • This topic was modified 1 week, 3 days ago by Buccaneer Buccaneer.
    • This topic was modified 1 week, 3 days ago by Buccaneer Buccaneer.
    Attachments:

    crosbyman
    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 993
    Topics: 125
    #157618

    just fyi … most pictures/attachements can be copied and pasted into Windows Powerpoint where streching things up is easy !

    tom-manley
    tom-manley
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 311
    Topics: 32
    #157638

    I assume you have a standard Model T buzz coil, with one power terminal on top, one on the bottom, and the spark plug terminal in the middle.

    Run one battery terminal (-) to the ground of the motor. Run the other battery terminal (+) to the top terminal of the coil. Then run a wire between the isolated terminal of the timer and the bottom terminal of the coil.

    T


    chris-p
    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 2425
    Topics: 154
    #157659

    Here you go….

    Attachments:
    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 2682
    Topics: 754
    #157667

    Thanks for the replies guys. Sounds like I should have three separate wires
    exiting my box then. I started to do some of the wiring, but then
    realized that I haven’t come up with anything for a switch yet to go
    in the “Com” wire. I’ll probably look for some kind of knife switch that
    I can screw onto the box.

    The coil I have is not Model T, but rather a “Detroit” coil.

    Prepare to be boarded!

    Attachments:

    george-emmanuel
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 351
    Topics: 17
    #157801

    You can use a toggle switch if you want. All the switch is to do is break the current going to the coil. You can place it between the positive or the negative leads coming from the battery. I built my coil box to do 2 different things: Provide a 6 volt source for running my ELTOs and also to provide spark for RBMs. One box for both types ignitions.

    George

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 2682
    Topics: 754
    #157820

    George, I ordered at knife switch last night. Thought about
    a toggle switch, but didn’t have or see one I could mount
    in my 3/4″ thick box.
    Regarding “dual” purpose battery boxes, you remind me
    that I have a battery operated Bendix that I could probably
    use the same battery box.
    Thanks!

    Prepare to be boarded!

    Tubs
    Tubs
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1903
    Topics: 108
    #157878

    Buccaneer
    Buccaneer
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 2682
    Topics: 754
    #157969

    Tubs, I had scraps from some oak veneered stair treads I used
    to build the box.
    Some “Hit and Miss” engine people solder on Fahnestock clips to the Model T coils
    to attach the wires, but guessing your bolts will work fine.

    Clips on EBay in case anyone is thinking….. “What are Fahnestock Clips!”

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/113381058437

    Prepare to be boarded!

    Tubs
    Tubs
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1903
    Topics: 108
    #158150

    I prefer using ring terminals rather
    than sticking bare wire into the spring clips but that is just me.
    Prevents a wire getting pulled out at an inconvenient moment
    but makes adjusting wire length more complicated. I also have
    all the stuff sitting around after decades of wiring cars.

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by Tubs Tubs.
Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.