Cable/ Drum steering .

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This topic contains 17 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Avatar Samuel Phelps 5 days, 21 hours ago.

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    Samuel Phelps
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 32
    Topics: 4
    #178410

    Getting ready to purchase cable and springs . Any sources for springs that y’all can steer me towards ?
    One question .. The original pulleys are the small brass ones but What I mostly see out there are the larger plastic pulleys ..
    Any reason not to use the brass ones ? They all are in great shape . Would the smaller pulleys slow the system down ?
    Thanks .

    frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4244
    Topics: 43
    #178412

    Brass pulleys are OK for an authentic restoration, I guess. But the small diameter is not too friendly with plastic-coated tiller cable.

    frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4244
    Topics: 43
    #178414

    Look out for any pulleys that are riveted/swaged together and can pull apart. Those kind are what gives cable steering a bad name. Likewise, do not wood-screw them to the boat. Thru-bolt them.

    Avatar
    Samuel Phelps
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 32
    Topics: 4
    #178415

    I was thinking on using stainless uncoated cable .
    Know of any disadvantages of that?

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    stanley
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 292
    Topics: 97
    #178419

    How big is the motor?

    Avatar
    Samuel Phelps
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 32
    Topics: 4
    #178421

    22.5 hp Speeditwin

    frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 4244
    Topics: 43
    #178422

    I was thinking on using stainless uncoated cable .

    Know of any disadvantages of that?

    You mean like sailboat rigging stuff? Completely out of my realm.

    Avatar
    Samuel Phelps
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 32
    Topics: 4
    #178423

    Like this or thicker . https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-32-in-x-200-ft-Stainless-Steel-Uncoated-Wire-Rope-810060/204471269
    Here are the brass pulleys. The U shaped clips were screwed into solid thick wood under the gunnel cap with 1-1/4’’ wood screws .

    The hull of my boat is probably 3/8’ cold molded veneer plywood . I hate the thought of a through bolt through the side of that but definitely want to be safe .

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    stanley
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 292
    Topics: 97
    #178426

    I’d use the hardware you have.If it doesn’t work like you’d hoped,you can easily change it.As others said,you should through bolt the the main attachment points.Sometimes you can bolt through a frame and avoid going through the hull.

    Avatar
    amuller
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 845
    Topics: 134
    #178436

    If you use the type of SS wire rope with many fine strands, as used for halyards on sailboats, etc, it would normally be OK. But those sheaves look small to me. You can look up the minimum sheave diameter on line.

    Do you want to use this hardware for authenticity, or just because you have it?

    Avatar
    Samuel Phelps
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 32
    Topics: 4
    #178465

    Authenticity and because I have it .. . I still need to get 2 more pulleys and the springs . I picked up 1/8” ss cable , ferrules , and ss clamps …
    The cable fits the pulleys I have pretty well …

    russonz
    russonz
    International Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 8
    Topics: 2
    #178468

    Stainless cable around a small pulley sheave will fail at some point due to metal fatigue, but running at a small angle there’s not so much of a problem. You can look up recommended sheave sizes for whatever diameter cable you are using. We run race boats so I know this is a crucial factor in steering setup. The best cable to use is Dyneema, an extremely durable synthetic which is stronger than steel and stretches less. Plastic coated steel cable is the worst to use in my opinion.

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    outbdnut2
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1123
    Topics: 56
    #178472

    You mentioned springs. I’ve used the kind commonly sold with screen /storm door closers that go with the safety chain. These were more common 20 or 30 years ago. They look the same as the boat steering springs, not sure if the spring tension is the same, but they work for me. Here’s a link:

    https://www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/door-window-hardware/storm-door-replacement-parts/wright-products-aluminum-storm-door-safety-chain/96093007-100/p-1444432015818-c-7567.htm?tid=-4894228662016269081&ipos=49

    You will probably find 3 or 4 similar types at hardware retailers.
    Dave

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 4 days ago by Avatar outbdnut2.
    • This reply was modified 1 week, 4 days ago by Avatar outbdnut2.
    Avatar
    Samuel Phelps
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 32
    Topics: 4
    #178478

    Russonz , I will check into the Dyneema .
    outbdnut2 , I think I actually have a set of those springs in the garage if I can find them .. My only concern is I live in Fl near the water . Everything rust ….
    So ss is preferable unless I have no other choice.

    Avatar
    amuller
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 845
    Topics: 134
    #178493

    Dyneema is a brand for lots of stuff, but most is based on Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMwPE). This is really strong stuff, competitive with Kevlar and suchlike. Maybe russonz could post info on how to tie it off in this application. The only concern I would have, especially in Florida, is deterioration in sunlight. Is there a way to tell when it’s needing replacement?

    You could also use airplane tailwheel springs, but likely screen door springs would be easier to find if less quality controlled.

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