Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Changing the shift rod seal on my Johnson CD-12
- This topic has 34 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 10 months ago by
garry-in-michigan.
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February 13, 2017 at 10:48 pm #52965
i know we don’t fix if it ain’t broken but if you are in there why not inspect for fishing line etc…
change the prop shaft seal, the O ring, spagetti seal and drive shaft seal under the impeller
couple more $$$ of course so it depends on you
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February 14, 2017 at 12:45 am #52970quote crosbyman:i know we don’t fix if it ain’t broken but if you are in there why not inspect for fishing line etc…change the prop shaft seal, the O ring, spagetti seal and drive shaft seal under the impeller
couple more $$$ of course so it depends on you
I rebuilt all of the lower unit 2 years ago, but not the shift rod seal, because I didn’t know how to remove it.
Now, that’s done and so far – no leaks.February 16, 2017 at 1:24 am #53085Frank Robb sold me an awesome tool for the shift rod.
February 16, 2017 at 1:50 am #53092quote 1946Zephyr:Frank Robb sold me an awesome tool for the shift rod.Frank has discontinued selling those . Glad I got one before he did ! Have to be careful using it as there is a risk of breaking the casting on some models.
February 16, 2017 at 2:18 am #53096February 16, 2017 at 4:44 am #53103When you guys tap them, do you usually have to drill some before using a 5/16 tap?
Also, do you usually reuse the same bushing if you didn’t drill/tap all the way through?
February 16, 2017 at 5:56 am #53105quote SteeleMan:When you guys tap them, do you usually have to drill some before using a 5/16 tap?Also, do you usually reuse the same bushing if you didn’t drill/tap all the way through?
I personally have never had to drill before tapping. I also use the same bushing over as I do not go too far into it. Probably wouldn’t matter anyway as long as the O-ring does not get cut.
February 16, 2017 at 1:22 pm #53109The shift rod bushing on my Fleetwin pulled out as I was tapping it.
Not sure if it was never seated tight enough or what, but after
I re-installed it, I put a little loctite around the top for good luck!Prepare to be boarded!
February 16, 2017 at 1:29 pm #53110I never have had to drill before tapping either. I never tap past about half way. All that is needed are a few solid threads for the bolt to grab and it can be driven out with a punch on the end of the bolt that is threaded into the bushing. If it were tapped thru it would undoubtedly shorten the life of the bushing. The shift rod would then only be supported by the peaks of the threads. At least it still has a decent land to bear on if the threads only go half way through the bushing. Remember that the bushing is there to guide the shift rod and the O-ring is there to seal it. If the bushing is badly worn, the seal won’t last long. I also put some Scotch 847 at the leading edge of the bushing when I reseat it to help seal the outside.
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February 16, 2017 at 5:47 pm #53125The other tool that you should make, similar to mumbles, is a tool to insert the brass plug into place. My tool was made out of an old driveshaft from an outboard and you just have to tap the brass plug into place. Very similar to the tools that you use to put seals in place.
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