Condenser question re 1924 BNL Johnsonv

[Monte NZ]

Would it be ok to use a standard condenser as used in 1950s/60s OMC motors?

Thanks in advance.

Monte NZ

[crosbyman]

.22uf

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Monte NZ

[The Boat House]

I have tested the OMC condenser on a Merc-O-Tronic and they run around .23mf. I have also tested many of the Chevy and Chrysler Products from the 1960’s to 1970 and they all run from .21 to.23 mf. I have use both in my coil substitutions with good results. Tubs

[crosbyman]

capacitor chart for oldies…

see mr. mohat’s conclusion…

I believe we can make the following generalizations and recommendations:

Motors, 1900s – (MASSIVE steel magnets, 2 pole / 2 pole construction, absolutely HUGE spark
coils)….use a .68 to 1.0uF condenser. Error on going too large, to protect the insulation in your
antique spark coil if possible…as long as your motor can be started easily.

Motors 1910s through 1920s (STEEL MAGNETS, 2 pole / 2 pole construction, very large spark
coil)….use a .47uF to .68uF condenser. Again, error on going larger than this, as long as you
can start the motor easily!

Motors 1930s and 1940s (Steel Magnets, typically 2 pole / 3 pole construction, “medium” size
spark coils)….use a .3 to .47uF condenser.

Motors 1930s and 1940s, (Alnico Magnets, 2 pole / 3 pole construction, smaller size spark
coils)….use a .22 to .47uF condenser.

Motors 1950s and newer (all)….just use a .22uF. It REALLY isn’t at all critical, apparently!
Also note that almost all 12V “Battery and Points” ignition systems seem to use something close
to 0.22uF as well, so this is sort of your ‘universal replacement’ value.

 

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[Monte NZ]

Thanks Tubs and Crosbyman for your input……big help and much appreciated!’

Monte NZ

[Monte NZ]

Problem removing driveshaft from 1924 Johnson BNL gearbox.

I’m dismantling the above to give it a good clean out prior to repacking with grease and cant remove the drive shaft. Its a fresh water motor to the best of my knowledge, as there is no corrosion visible and all the screws and bolts have come out easily. The problem is how to remove the gear off the shaft. I have tried holding the drive shaft in a padded vice and then tried driving the gearbox off with a plastic hammer, but no sign of movement ………..needless to say I don’t want to do any damage.

Again, thanks in advance for any help.

Monte NZ

[The Boat House]

The flash drive that I bring when I’m away from home has gone blank so I can’t provide pictures. Let the drive shaft drop down into the gear case. Clean the grease off and you’ll find this flat (Big PITA) spring arrangement, that has a pin underneath, to hold the gear on the shaft. Tubs

[crosbyman]

if heat & some release agent  does not work.. try freezing it…   Dollar store  keyboard spray can held upside down will freeze it real fast !

Spray the gear only work outside do not breathe coolant spray

Expansion and contraction of matter: Heat and Particle Theory (youtube.com)

 

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[The Boat House]

Heat could take the temper out of the spring. Once you have the pin out the gear will slide right off. Tubs

[Monte NZ]

Thanks crosbyman and Tubs once again for your much appreciated input……..Mr Mohat’s  article and the You Tube on expansion and contraction are very interesting.

I am pleased to report that I have spark…….one side has a bigger spark than the other. I swapt the spark plus around and installed new HT leads, but it didn’t make any difference…….what that indicates I’m not sure. Maybe I will wait until and see how the motor runs.

Regarding the dismantling of the gearbox and pump, I got that apart ok. I found that by lowering the drive shaft with the gear, that there was a steel ring round the top of the gear and by sliding the ring up it exposed a steel drive pin, which slid out easily…….simple but very effective.    I managed to get the pump apart. All appeared ok and worked well later when tested in our it laundry tub. One point I would like to make though, is to be very careful undoing the top valve which has a the thin hexagonal section with the adjustment screw in the middle.

It is  easy to have  the spanner slip and damage the hexagonal end of the valve so I mounted the pump body (which goes into the gearbox) in my lathe, making sure it was tight in the chuck and using an  on old car inlet/exhaust valve, fitted into the tailstock  chuck, I then brought the face of the valve up to the hexagonal section, so that it was just touching and  locked the tailstock from moving. I then fitted the spanner and gave it a gentle smack with a hammer, which broke it loose…….”Hey Presto” …… no damage !……….Hope this helps someone dealing with similar problem.

Thanks again

Monte NZ

 

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