Home Forum Ask A Member Condensers for Evinrude Zephyr (4404)

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  • #216800
    joecb
    Participant

      US Member

      Jeff is my ( our) capacitor hero ! Can’t tell you how many motors those modern foil caps have brought back to life… and the .22mf size seems to be abut universal

      Joe B

      #216813
      jeff-register
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        Just trying to help! Thank you Jim & Joe!!
        Best,
        Jeff

        1 user thanked author for this post.
        #216850
        The Boat House
        Participant

          Tubs,
          Bet that cap would be the same for the 272, 292, & 312 the T-bird mtr. Maybe a 58 big block 332, early 390 block. Remember those??? I had a 57 Ranch station wagon, the two door version. Put a 1965 Mercury engine 390, trans & pumpkin even fit the axle splines. Stopped for a school bus & was rear ended. It was totaled……Now I am a old guy like the one who hit me. It was a fun build though!!!
          Jeff

          #217460
          jeff-register
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years

            Be sure to order the caps with the “HQ” suffex. It is a better cap. Can’t believe I remembered that!!

            #287692
            RICHARD A. WHITE
            Participant

              Lifetime Member

              Maybe a dumb question, but as I am NOT an Electrical engineer….On those Vishay caps….is there a positive and negative side, or does it not matter?

              http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
              classicomctools@gmail.com

              #287694
              crosbyman
              Participant

                Canada Member - 2 Years

                foil capacitors re NOT polarity sensitive.  they just  store electrons  on foil.

                to read up on  capacitors, testing  and repair procedure you may be interested  in M.Mohat’s  excellent articles from past OUTBOARDER issues or the WRAOMCI site

                https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part1_Condenser_Construction_Failure_Modes.pdf

                https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part2_Condenser_Testers_And_Testing_Correctly.pdf

                https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part3_Sizing_Condensers_Correctly.pdf

                https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part4_Repairing_Broken_Condensers.pdf

                summay….

                Motors, 1900s – (MASSIVE steel magnets, 2 pole / 2 pole construction, absolutely HUGE spark
                coils)….use a .68 to 1.0uF condenser. Error on going too large, to protect the insulation in your
                antique spark coil if possible…as long as your motor can be started easily.

                Motors 1910s through 1920s (STEEL MAGNETS, 2 pole / 2 pole construction, very large spark
                coil)….use a .47uF to .68uF condenser. Again, error on going larger than this, as long as you
                can start the motor easily!

                Motors 1930s and 1940s (Steel Magnets, typically 2 pole / 3 pole construction, “medium” size
                spark coils)….use a .3 to .47uF condenser.

                Motors 1930s and 1940s, (Alnico Magnets, 2 pole / 3 pole construction, smaller size spark
                coils)….use a .22 to .47uF condenser.

                Motors 1950s and newer (all)….just use a .22uF. It REALLY isn’t at all critical, apparently!
                Also note that almost all 12V “Battery and Points” ignition systems seem to use something close
                to 0.22uF as well, so this is sort of your ‘universal replacement’ value.

                 

                 

                Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                1 user thanked author for this post.
                #287725
                joecb
                Participant

                  US Member

                  While we are on the subject of capacitors and Jeff is “onboard” , I have a related question for him… I just saw a video ( here ?) about using a new ceramic capacitor as a replacement on our magneto ignition systems. Now these ceramic caps are “teeny – tiny” things about half the size of a “Chicklet”. Jeff help me understand… my feeble understanding of things electrical says the capacitor is analogous to a bucket in a water circuit as it accumulates then dumps the electrons… these tiny ceramic caps sure are a very very tiny “bucket” !!!

                  Joe B

                  #287755
                  Mumbles
                  Participant

                    Maybe a dumb question, but as I am NOT an Electrical engineer….On those Vishay caps….is there a positive and negative side, or does it not matter?

                    Nope. As mentioned though, they are bipolar meaning they have no negative or positive leads and can be installed either way.

                    Depending on design, one lead on a bipolar axial cap is usually connected to the outer casing and can be detected with special equipment. Boutique, or high end (as in expensive) caps usually have this lead marked but it only matters to guys who work on exotic tube amplifiers. Something about they can hear the difference thru their $30,ooo dollar speakers if a cap is installed one way or another.

                    #287802
                    olcah
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Mumbles,

                      Please describe how to install the cap in a can.  I have .22 uF digikey  caps but the leads break from vibration in a running motor.  How do you connect the leads inside the old can?  Is the cap shown wrapped in tape?  Would the tall can work on a standard magneto?

                      Thank you.

                      #287805
                      crosbyman
                      Participant

                        Canada Member - 2 Years

                        see M.Mohat articles…. the  emptied cap can is simply drilled 1/16 on the  bottom or the side near the bottom.   one  leg of the carb is  passed  to the outside and welded  on the can

                         

                        the tall can may be fine if it does not rub under the fw

                         

                        the other end is carefully centered in the can  and extended  with a small  piece  insulated stand  wire enough to reach the points

                         

                        just  center the cap in the can  with epoxy  and top of with a dab of  clear silicone ( no black silicon) .

                        Microsoft Word – Part4_Repairing_Broken_Condensers.doc (wrcoutboards.org)

                         

                        Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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