Condensers Testing

[frankr]

quote FrankR:

I’d say that 99% of no-spark problems are due to dirty or mal-adjusted breaker points, assuming the coils and other parts are good. I’d revisit them.

I would not say I told you so, but—well never mind. Let’s both of us hope the next guy learns by reading this. And that’s why we are here.

[outbdnut2]

I use an old Heathkit capacitor checker that I put together back around 1960. It lets you put up to 600 volts on the capacitor and also will tell you how much capacitance it has. There are a few on E-Bay. Here’s a link to one of them:
BTW, if anyone has one of these and needs a manual, I can send a copy of mine.
Dave

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Heathki … Sw9GhYczj9

[Mumbles]

Here’s how one audio tech tests capacitors. The video is kind of long at 38 minutes but it’s thorough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pp66KX8zIO0

[stxray]

quote FrankR:

quote FrankR:

I’d say that 99% of no-spark problems are due to dirty or mal-adjusted breaker points, assuming the coils and other parts are good. I’d revisit them.

I would not say I told you so, but—well never mind. Let’s both of us hope the next guy learns by reading this. And that’s why we are here.

LOL, I deserve that. 😆 But revisit them I did. Multiple times! As I said earlier, they looked good and I did clean them repeatedly. However, being out of ideas, and looking at the various posts (yours in particular), I figured dismantling the ignition system might be worthwhile. Then, with all the components on the bench I set about testing each one separately. That’s when I discovered the problem. I’m really surprised at how good they looked and how bad they were. 😯

Lesson Learned: Test — Don’t assume because something looks good and a usually cleaning has been done that the points are good to go. Better to actually test them. 😳

Without your help (and that of the other posters) I’d still be banging my head against the wall.

Thanks again!

[nali]

quote Mumbles:

Here’s how one audio tech tests capacitors. The video is kind of long at 38 minutes but it’s thorough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pp66KX8zIO0

Really instructive video.
It explain a lot of things people without electronic knowledge ignore.

One more thing, but mainly about polarized capacitors. The fabrication tolerance is usually between 10 and 20%.
So it’s not a real problem to use a "close" value 🙂
Of course, it’s off topic for our ignitions.

[cajuncook1]

quote stxray:

quote FrankR:

quote FrankR:

I’d say that 99% of no-spark problems are due to dirty or mal-adjusted breaker points, assuming the coils and other parts are good. I’d revisit them.

I would not say I told you so, but—well never mind. Let’s both of us hope the next guy learns by reading this. And that’s why we are here.

LOL, I deserve that. 😆 But revisit them I did. Multiple times! As I said earlier, they looked good and I did clean them repeatedly. However, being out of ideas, and looking at the various posts (yours in particular), I figured dismantling the ignition system might be worthwhile. Then, with all the components on the bench I set about testing each one separately. That’s when I discovered the problem. I’m really surprised at how good they looked and how bad they were. 😯

Lesson Learned: Test — Don’t assume because something looks good and a usually cleaning has been done that the points are good to go. Better to actually test them. 😳

Without your help (and that of the other posters) I’d still be banging my head against the wall.

Thanks again!

Well now I don’t have to make the video 🙂

When I was looking at your pictures, the points looked like they could use a good cleaning. Like Frank says, " Are they shiney clean!" You were absolutely correct in tearing the whole magneto and cleaning all the contact surfaces.

COOL! Glad you have spark.

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