Connecting Rod Bolts

[chris-p]

Ive never had a bolt back out on me, YET, but would there be any negatives to putting a dab of Loctite, or 3M 847 on the threads of the rod cap bolts before torqueing, on the models that DONT have any locking tabs or safety wire?

[wedgie]

The negative with loctite would be that the caps would be hard to undo. I would use the medium strength /non permanent stuff if I thought there was a chance I would have to take it apart again….and I often do have to 😳 I asked this question on the old blue boards and F.R. said the loctite is an acceptable option if the locks were unavailable. Not sure the 847 would do much to stop the screw from unwinding

[jeff-register]

Yes locktite 222 or 242 will work.

[frankr]

Depends on what motor you are talking about. A dab of Loctite on one that uses lock tabs is ok, I suppose, but make sure don’t use so much that it wicks out into the bearing. On the other hand, rods with roller bearings are perfectly happy with no other safeguards than proper torque….which is an absolute MUST. Too little torque and they may come loose. Too much torque and they may break while running. And use an inch-pound torque wrench for better accuracy.

[jeff-register]

Frank,
Are you speaking of roller or needle bearings?

[chris-p]

I agree Frank, I have never used anything on the threads, but always wondered if a dab of the 518 or the like would help before sealing her up. Always use my inch/lbs torque wrench as well. I think Ill just stick to what has worked for me so far, nothing 😉

Cheers thanks all.

EDIT: Frank what do you recommend on the bushing motors with no lock tabs on them? An example would be say a ’57 QD where the wrist pins are non roller? OR do you mean just on the big end?

[frankr]

Talking about the big end in all cases here.

Jeff, I call needles & rollers the same thing. Rollers are just fatter.

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