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If there is a desired float level spec. I don’t know of it. There should be a notch on the lower part of the float pin (needle) where a clip goes. This positions the float on the float float pin. Another clip goes on the top of the float to hold it in position. If your top clip is the friction type they work pretty well. The ones with a screw can be troublesome. Recently, having an issue away from home, I wrapped some wire around a smaller dia. allen (hex) wrench and slid it over the float pin. This worked well and is staying. As the cork is a natural product, its density can vary so two cork floats of the same dimension may produce a different fuel level in the bowl. Also trying to get an accurate measurement with the float bowl cover off could be a challenge. You’re more likely to have an issue with the float pin not seating, causing the carb. to run over. This is the result of corrosion, mostly in the seat. Putting some toothpaste on the needle, and spinning it in the seat, being careful to keep the needle straight up in the float bowl, can help achieve a better seal. Some pictures attached as to how I test how successful my attempts have been when a motor has this style of float system. If I can keep the carb from running over for 5 minutes, that good enough to put the carb on the motor, remembering to shut the petcock after running the motor. Its been my experience that the best seal is achieved from the vibration of the motor after running them for an extend period. At some point I’ll forget to shut the fuel off and that’s when I find out if a good seal has been achieved, however the fuel shut off is easily accessible on these early motors for a reason.
The float level can be really critical in one style of carburetor while not so much in another. An example would be the Speedsters and Quads. When running them wide open, as the level in the fuel tank drops, so does the float pin, until it almost disappears. Yet they keep on going till the tank is empty. This carburetor that Monte is asking about is difficult to check the fuel level accurately, and doesn’t have any mechanism to adjust the fuel level. Also the floats often very the size and density. I have some experience running these, and while getting a good seal at the needle and seat can be a challenge I’ve never had and instance where I needed to adjust the height of the float. All that together would indicate to me that the fuel level in this carburetor isn’t critical. Others may see it differently. While this little carburetor doesn’t look to be much I find it to be a marvel of engineering. I have a winter project with the same power head and carburetor. I took it off to make this short video to demonstrate how the choke function works. Notice how passage is reshaped and becomes smaller, increasing the air speed. At the same time the air is directed over the top of the nozzle pulling up the fuel to prime the motor. This carburetor was first used in 1922. I think this was way ahead of its time and one of the reasons these motors were, and are, so reliable. Video link— https://youtu.be/Ev-MzjEfDSE Tubs
If the screen is interfering with the sealing washer it would need to be cut down. I can rarely get a 100% seal with the tooth paste but if I can get to the point that it takes over 5 minuets for the fuel to run over, the vibration from extensive running will usually improve on that. The easy access to a fuel shut off on the tank, with type of needle and seat, indicates you can’t count on these things not to run over. I’ve had motors where I forgot to shut off the fuel and they went all night without running over. Others- I try to remember to shut off the fuel as soon as I stop the motor cause I cant trust them. Tubs
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