Cylinder head shocking me 1957 35hp evinrude
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February 13, 2017 at 5:22 pm #52946
My best guess is it is arcing across the outside of the plug, and across the surface of the paint to your finger. But I still think that is near impossible.
February 13, 2017 at 5:48 pm #52948If you applied a lot of paint to the head, the bolt shoulders may have not cut through the paint to provide a good enough ground , not providing as good a ground as you. Electricity always seeks the best,closest and easiest path to ground. Since you are testing in a barrel, Are your feet wet and standing on wet ground. I got a good zap with a timing light with wet feet.
Your shock may be a combination of the two possible scenarios causes."Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie RobertsonFebruary 13, 2017 at 6:43 pm #52951try grounding the armature plate to the block with a jumper lead with alligator clips
February 13, 2017 at 6:49 pm #52952I applied three layers of paint and bolted over the paint.. So now it’s all coming together. yes i was standing in water with it in the test bucket.
Runs great and idles smooth in the bucket.. like crap in the lake, like one piston decides to fire late.
I had no problems before i switched the cylinder plates.. Plugs and boots are correct and good condition! Gotta be the paint i guess!
I’m going to have to remove paint or ground out another way I guess, still learning a a lot about small engines and grounding, the hard way!February 13, 2017 at 10:00 pm #52960Well, I can fathom the slim possibility that the head is somehow partially insulated from the block due to excessive paint/sealer….But, if this was the case, I can understand that shock because you are helping to complete the circuit. But, following this scenario, the ignition wouldn’t be killed, only improved, because your body is helping to complete the ground circuit. Perhaps the primary side of the ignition is partially grounded to the mag plate. The mag plate is not well grounded on these engines, touching the block helps complete this primary short to ground which kills the engine…But, this would probably only affect just one bad cylinder’s ignition circuit….
This kind of reminds me of a 2hp problem I had once. The mag plates on those OMC 2hps are pretty well insulated from the block with a plastic bushing, there is a ground strap that is supposed to complete the secondary circuit but its ground connection was weak/rusted.
The only time I would get shocked was when I touched the aluminum throttle lever, I guess I was helping to complete the secondary circuit.February 14, 2017 at 4:24 am #52986** Fixed shock**
Had to remove some cylinder head bolts, sand off paint and replaced bolts. no more shocking!14′ Aluminum Boat, no gear.
I’m still having problems with the engine running like it has no power at WOT, and out of no where it kicks in and I’m on plain at 28mph.
When I slow back down, it bogs down if I try to throttle back up and starts to sneeze than out of no where it gets fuel and i’m hauling.
Boat runs great at idle, easy to start.I’m having trouble with packing for low speed adjustment, could this be the culprit of the
February 14, 2017 at 4:31 am #52987Sounds electrical. How old are the condensers? A set of new NGK B8S plugs might help to.
February 14, 2017 at 1:17 pm #52994Does your flywheel have an inspection plate? If so, you might want to peek inside to see if perhaps the flywheel has chafed some primary wiring under there…
February 14, 2017 at 1:37 pm #52995If you’re having problems on the lake and NOT at home in the test barrel, then your fault is under the flywheel. Cracked coils, etc.
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