Dare I…ask an Etec question here?

[johnyrude200]

Out of curiosity…does anyone know if the automatic winterization/fogging function on the new Etec’s does in fact work as well as the old tried and true method?

I own an Etec, and as much as it’s nice to let a computer do the work for you, I still question whether this is truly a good way of storing my motor over the winter months.

I made it a point to run stabilized fuel with seafoam through the motor before I put her away last fall. It took me 30 MINUTES to get it to stall out with just the fuel in the fuel lines and bowl. Then I ran it with the aforementioned mixture and went through the usual automatic computerized fogging procedure.

[willg]

I would recommend adding stabilizer to the fuel tank before the last outing of the year, then doing the auto storage procedure. Another couple of tips: Pump some minus 50 RV/Marine antifreeze thru the flush fitting on the back of the motor before storage, as the water cooled vapor separator holds a small amount of water and can freeze, although I have never seen that happen in my 7 years of working with ETec. Secondly, avoid running the fuel system dry, as the electric high pressure (around 30 psi) fuel pump is cooled by the fuel and doesn’t like to be run dry. Third, the auto storage mode just over oils the motor and I haven’t seen any problems with corrosion by doing it this way. Lastly, I recommend if that you are not using XD-100 oil, have your dealer program the motor for it, as it will cut oil consumption and the full synthetic oil lubricates better. At the dealer I work for, all new ETecs get programmed for XD-100, and the only oil issues I have seen are with water getting in the remote oil tank (not a new thing at all or limited to BRP/OMC. I have seen the same with Yamaha and Merc as well). Hope this helps, Will.

[johnyrude200]

Thanks for the good info. The rear flushing attachment…I winterize the motor well before cold temperatures approach (usually a month or two)…is that long enough to let any water vapor evaporate if I forget to flush the antifreeze through?

Thanks,

Joel

[willg]

I really don’t know. I’d just do it as a gallon of the minus 50 is usually less than 5 bucks at wal mart or any auto parts store. I just put enough thru to see pink out of the water intakes. I use a Camco RV hand pump to put it through. Also, make sure to use a set of ear muffs on the water intake if running out of water, as the rear flush attachment is made to be used with the engine not running.

[dan-in-tn]

Etec questions are fine. You can’t set Etecs to 100/1. The new maps won’t except that ratio anymore. They did away with that again after discovering again (small motors tried 100/1 earlier) that motors don’t store well at 100/1. In warmer climates where someone is likely to use their motor at anytime (not winterized at all) rust or corrosion can occur when unexpected long period of time (freezing cold winters come like this year for longer than usual). The winterization program accelerates the motor to a prescribed RPM and puts the oil pump into a rate that disperses oil throughout the engine. Remember that the oil is primarily being showered on the rod wells. The extra speed merely acts to move the oil to the cylinder walls. It is very effective and simple. Nothing wrong with the fuel stabilizer. I get a little worried about storing an engine with SeaFoam or any cleaning agent! I know Engine Tuner and Power Tune from OMC & Merc are corrosive when left in the engine for prolonged periods of time. Why would you want it in there in the first place? It is not a lubricant or rust preventive! Just my two cent!

Dan in TN

[dan-in-tn]

BTW: The OMC motors can run fine from the rear hose attachment. The water pump is lubricated from the water as well as the powerhead. Most people use ear muffs because they are easier and just the way they have always done things!

Dan in TN

[willg]

Thanks for the info Dan!

[dan-in-tn]

I just watched your video on the Gale Bucaneer 12 hp. Feels like I got to know you a little.

Happy boating.

Dan in TN

[johnyrude200]

Thanks for the info BigBird…eh-em…t2stroke…

Agree with running the motor on the rear hose attachment – dealer showed it to me running that way. Threading a hose onto the daughter end of the motor is a hassle (maybe I should opt for better home-depot hoses than the lowest price ones), so I use a bucket. Power tilt/trim comes in handy, plus I flush the motor after every salt water use by running it for at least 5 minutes and washing it down by hand. I may be paranoid, but I do gearcase oil changes every 50 hours. They say good for 2-3 years…but I’ll stick with every 50 hours for such a low cost.

The seafoam was only in the motor when I was running it during the year. My error in typing, when put away, it was straight gas and sta-bil. Just wanted to make sure I am doing everything possible to protect my $5,500.00 investment. It takes a lot of 60’s-90’s motor flips to save up to buy one of these!

And for everyone’s chuckle…I had the impeller on the Etec fly apart after just 2 months of use and about 100 hours on the motor. That was 12 miles away from base camp…oh what fun being towed back that far under headway speed with a new motor….but thankfully the computer kills the motor before it overheats…which is nice.

Did I mention the 5-year warranty doesn’t cover impellers?

[fleetwin]

What dealer did you buy the engine from? Did he check with BRP before refusing coverage? Generally speaking, impellers are not covered, but it should be covered if the impeller hub was slipping.

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