Eismann coils

[Buccaneer]

I did the other Eisemann to OMC coil swap today. I wish I had a better way
to machine down the width of the laminations, other than angle grinder, belt
sander, 5″ round sanding disc in the drill, Dremmel, and big fat flat bastard file.
Would that operation be something a milling machine would excel at?

I have not check for spark of this latest coil swap yet, but going by results of the first,
I’m very hopeful! I have a few loose ends, terminal ends for
the plug wires, adjust the points to .018, and figure out what to do for new spark plugs.

The KD4 had J8J Champion plugs in it, which the manual says is correct.
Of course, they’re a good 1/4″ shorter than the modern J8C Champions.
I have not tried to determine how much clearance the later plug would have, if any,
with the plug covers bolted on the engine.
What are any of you running for modern plugs in these engines?

Thanks!

Prepare to be boarded!

[bobw]

Buc – that’s another great piece of work. That will be a great looking motor when done.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[opposedtwin]

Agreed!! Is that new paint?

[Buccaneer]

Thanks. I didn’t set out for Tomahawk last summer looking for a KD4 or a Mercury for that
matter, but it’s just one of those motor’s that has that Space Age look…..
maybe that’s why it’s called a Rocket!
Duplicolor paint. Still have to order a decal set and a rubber grip yet.
Awaiting materials to finish the gas tank as well.
Photo to remind myself what it looked like when I brought it home.
The Waterwitch has the “look” as well.

Prepare to be boarded!

• This reply was modified 4 years, 2 months ago by Buccaneer.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 2 months ago by Buccaneer.

[opposedtwin]

I love that look! And those water witch models are sweet looking too. Is that one a runner too, yet?

[Mumbles]

Let us know how those caps hold up once you get the motor running as I notice they are rated at 400 VDC with no AC rating instead of 850 VDC/400 VAC like the Vishay axial caps I’ve been using. The given applications are slightly different to.

The reason I’m asking is because I tried different types of caps before the Vishay’s and they didn’t hold up very well. They seemed fine at first with great spark but after running them for a short time and testing them, the uF ratings were all over the map. I don’t think they could handle the voltage spikes generated in the coils. I think it was Jeff R. who worked with Digi-Key to come up with caps which would work well with magneto ignitions.

https://www.digikey.ca/products/en?keywords=%20P12106-ND

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?vendor=0&keywords=bc2609-nd

[Buccaneer]

Mumbles, I have some of the axial caps shown in the second link, but they’re
too long to fit in the condenser can. I might have been able to piggly back
them on the outside of the can.
The caps I used, I believe were from information Jeff R. posted, but will
try to research that.

Prepare to be boarded!

[kirkp]

Great write up and motor Buc. I need to make sure it gets in my archives for when I finally get around to my motors. I have a KD4 and a WD4S, both from ’47. It’s funny how Merc had the Eisemann coils on early KD4 then switched to Scintilla and pawned the Eisemann off on Wizard. I bought a separate Eisemann setup to convert my KD4.

Now to my questions.
I seem to remember reading somewhere that laminate assemblies shouldn’t be separated because something special was done between the plates to facilitate spark??? Has anyone heard of this? Not sure how much of a difference it makes since Tubs does it quite regularly.

Also, I’ve read suggestions that when narrowing down laminates that it should be done equally on all sides. Not sure why but at this time Buc’s removal all from the bottom seems to be working okay. Thoughts on this

Thanks
Kirk

[jeff-register]

Mumbles,
Yes I called Vishay directly & there was even more about the caps, HD or something like that to be mag rated. Have the research somewhere still but lost until our remodel is done. I agree the voltage rating was much higher for mags to live.
Jeff

[Buccaneer]

This is my list of the different Digi-key caps I’ve been using for a while
now. None of my outboards get much running time on them, so I don’t
know about longevity of the caps.

I can’t imagine I picked these caps specs out of thin air, and presume I picked
them from information on this site. If they’re not up to the task, I’m
going to have several failures on my rack at some point!

=============================
Manufacturer Part Number
MKP1839410084HQ

Description CAP FILM 0.1UF 5% 850VDC AXIAL

Detailed Description 0.1µF Film Capacitor 400V 850V Polypropylene (PP),
Metallized Axial

==================
.15 UF Axial

Digi-Key Part Number BC2608-ND

Manufacturer Part Number
MKP1839415084HQ

Description CAP FILM 0.15UF 5% 850VDC AXIAL

Detailed Description 0.15µF Film Capacitor 400V 850V Polypropylene (PP),
Metallized Axial

==================
“Orange”
.2 UF
0.2µF Film Capacitor 400V Polypropylene (PP), Metallized Radial

Digi-Key Part Number P12106-ND

Manufacturer Part Number
ECW-F4204JL

Description CAP FILM 0.2UF 5% 400VDC RADIAL

Detailed Description 0.2µF Film Capacitor 400V Polypropylene (PP),
Metallized Radial
==================

.22 UF Axial

Digi-Key Part #
BC2609-ND

Manufacturer Part Number
MKP1839422084HQ

Description CAP FILM 0.22UF 5% 850VDC AXIAL

Detailed Description 0.22µF Film Capacitor 400V 850V Polypropylene (PP),
Metallized Axial
==========================

Prepare to be boarded!

[Author]

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