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Steve,
When I did it I just insulated my wire with some plastic tubing where it touched the opening of the tank. Just get you wire long enough so the anode hangs about in the middle of the space. I used some scrap steel cut-off pieces for the steel anode.
This picture shows 2 wires with sacrificial pieces, one for either side of the baffle. One wire already had insulation on it, so no need for the tubing.
quote Steve A W:Mumbles
Could You do a tutorial on cleaning tanks with electrolosis?
How do You suspend the electrodes and how do You finish cleaning them?
What kind of power supply are You using? Doesn’t look like any battery charger I’ve ever seen.
ThanksSteve A W
I’m following the method listed in the Inner Sanctum.
https://www.aomci.org/members/library/El … emoval.pdf
I’m using a piece of angle iron for the anode hooked to the positive and it’s suspended with a piece of non conducting Twist Tie found in the garden shop at my local Quickie Mart. My way of thinking says more is better so maybe the large surface area will work better than a round rod? The solution is water and washing soda and the power source is a three bank marine battery charger out of a boat. I have tried doing this before with automotive/automatic chargers but found they need to be hooked up to a 12 volt battery before they’ll produce any current. This charger doubles as a power supply and if I had more wire, I could have hooked up a third tank.
Before I do anything, I pressure wash inside the tank to remove any oil film and loose rust. After cooking for a few hours, I pressure wash it again and if it still has rust buildup, I mix up more solution and juice it up again. I have two more tanks hooked up right now and I’ll let them cook overnight. When they are done and rinsed out, I pour a little alcohol in the tank and swish it around before drying it with compressed air. I found using a heat gun helps to dry it out on cool days.
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