Home Forum Ask A Member Elto Pal – Help starting and running

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  • #3904
    nonagging
    Participant

      My Elto Pal is running, but running rough and I could use some ideas. Here is a list of symptoms 🙁
      1. Takes 10 pulls to start and starts only on 3/4 throttle
      2. It misses every 30 secs or so when running
      3. After running for 10-15 seconds, it wants to die
      4. When it starts to die, I can wiggle the mixture needle and it revs back up smooth but then eventually dies

      These symptoms lead me to think it is a fuel flow issue? I have cleaned the carb several times, including the small fuel hole outlet in the poppet chamber but I think it is getting clogged constantly. Is there a way to filter the fuel before it reaches the carb? Any other suggestions?

      Another issue is the spark. The ignition sparks when I pull the flywheel hard (fast) and it sparks only during the last / end of the pull. I have cleaned and set the points. Heck, I even repaired the coil and plug wire (broker off coil)Should spark occur the entire pull? Do I have a weak spark?

      Another item is a thin round metal sleeve which slips between the drive shaft and the ignition plate. Do you know what purpose this serves and if it necessary? If so, how do I put it on? The fit is so tight I end up damaging the sleeve.

      Thanks for the help
      Nonagging (Brian)

      #33856
      The Boat House
      Participant

        Sent a reply to your PM.

        #33861
        mike-stroz
        Participant

          When those are running well, those are really sweet running motors. I wish I never sold mine

          #33872
          Mumbles
          Participant

            If your points are clean, all the wiring is good and the flywheel magnets are strong, your condenser (capacitor) may be getting tired, especially if it is the original one, and causing a weak spark. The original cap, P/N 171448, was rated at 0.1 uF and may be replaced with modern capacitors. The Vishay axial and Orange Drop in the picture both work good. The Vishay is smaller and with the leads coming out the ends, it’s easier to install.

            http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e … =BC2607-ND


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            #33881
            jerry-ahrens
            Participant

              One other thing I can think of is the cork stop that the poppet valve stops against each time it opens. I know there is a spec for how far the poppet valve opens, that is determined by the height of the the cork stop. I know Gary has posted this info in the past, but I don’t remember what it was. if this specification is off, those engines will run poorly. Those little fuel passages will clog easily. I like to use Quicksilver Power Tune or OMC Engine Tuner, spraying it through the tiny passage. Follow this with a rinse of carb spray to really get it clean.

              #33928
              kevinf
              Participant

                The poppet valve lift is 3/32" – you can use a drill bit to measure it. If you really want to go all the way on the carb the float should be set so the fuel level is 23/32" from the top of the bowl but I’ve never tackled the float level on my Pals and Ranger.

                Kev

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