ELTO Ruddertwin Flywheel Restoration

[chris-p]

For those of you that have restored a Ruddertwin, did you get your flywheel plated? If so, where did you have it done, were you happy with results, and what did it cost.

Got a couple quotes, but very expensive.

I may end up painting my tank and jugs, and possibly just get the flywheel done. I originally was going to plate the tank, flywheel, and the jugs. These look nice with a shiny flywheel in my opinion.

Would love to see some others pictures and what they did.

I may paint the crankcase silver, and possibly paint the jugs a nickel/copper tint. Tank a gun metal grey, then plate the flywheel perhaps.

Not getting much done as I spend more time contemplating than working.

[chris-p]

Anyone tried chrome paint, or chrome power coating?

[pm-t2]

I used to have nickel plating done at Precision Platers on Speers Rd in Oakville, but they aren’t in business anymore. Too bad, because they were the best guys around.

Any chrome plating shop should be able to nickel the flywheel for you. And it is bright nickel that you want, NOT chrome. It won’t be cheap, especially in Ontario. Important thing is to make sure that the plater understands what you want as far as brightness level.

As for the wheel, the main thing is prepping the substrate properly. All the old plating has to be removed, and its best if you don’t have the plater do it; you should do it yourself if you have access to a glass bead or soda blasting cabinet. Do not sand blast it, you will open up gawd-awful pits in that cast iron, which is the same reason you don’t want the plater using any chemical type of stripper to remove old nickel, it will eat holes in the iron for sure.

I have put them in a lathe and polished the rim areas to make them as smooth and perfect as possible. And polishing cast iron is filthy work, so protect the ways of the lathe. I don’t even like polishing stuff in the lathe because of the propensity of the chuck to act as a vacuum pump and suck all kinds of shit into the chuck and spindle, so I always plug the chuck bore and spindle opening and cover the ways if polishing in the lathe is the only option available. I prefer surface grinding on the top & bottom rim area, but on the O.D. polishing is about the only option.

For the cylinders, George Emmanuel used Rustoleum Stainless Steel paint, followed by a clear-coat, on a Lockwood Chief that really does a nice job of mimicking the dull nickel plating that Lockwoods had on them from the factory.

Hope this helps.

Best,
PM T2

[The Boat House]

I removed the remaining nickel
and polished this flywheel as Chris
has described. Not nickel but better
than paint IMO but you need a nice
flywheel to start.

[jerry-ahrens]

Nice work Tubs, looks great! I have a Ruddertwin and a nice original Speedster that is a good runner. I’ve wanted to attempt a restoration on both of these motors, but have never tried it because of the nickel plating issues. I’ll look fwd. to the replies in this thread.

[pm-t2]

Jerry I would be surprised if there are very many other folks jump in on this thread. I would hope we’d hear from a whole bunch like any number of the classic motor threads seem top be able to draw (i.e. "Top speed with 18hp Evinrude on 14′ aluminum" string is up to 6 pages). But chances are, I can use five, maybe no more than six fingers to count the names of any others aside from Tubs and myself that might chime in. I won’t name names, just initials…… RE, JW, GE, FT, BN, and maybe TG are regular contributors who might have something to offer on the subject of nickel plating and/or suitable substitutes.

But maybe I’ll be pleasantly surprised and some new guys that I don’t know about will get involved in sharing restoration techniques on the older iron.

BTW Tubs the flywheel on that Speedster looks superb, and proves that the old cast iron will polish up nicely if you’re willing to put the work in on it.

Best,
PM T2

[chris-p]

Chris,

I try to get conversations going on them, but as you say, not much interest it seems on this forum.

I use to just email Bill Salisbury direct with any 20s 30s vintage questions, but sadly, he is not able to get to a computer like he used to I hear.

I miss his experienced advice and guidance!

Precision Platers would have been much too handy, as my office is around the corner! Too bad.

Ill see what I can come up with for this. I may try to plate it myself. I have a spare if I "Chris" it up!

[george-emmanuel]

The ACBS members who are anal about their chrome use Graves Plating in Florence Alabama. gplating@aol.com and there is a good shop in MN, JR Custom Plating, JR@JRCustomPlating.com

The Rustoleum product is called Stainless Steel. The only issue is you MUST shake it thoroughly and continue to shake it in between coats. The stainless steel appearance comes from what I call flecks and if you don’t shake it well they can clog the nozzle.

I did spray a heavily pitted tank with an "Chrome Aluminum" that turned out beautiful,—-until I sprayed the clear coat and that made it gray.

George

[chris-p]

Thanks George.

I have read numerous online articles about that very same thing. Even with the chrome powder coating. Apparently you MUST clear coat it, and that causes it to turn gray colour, as you mention. Many guys have had that very complaint.

Im going to polish it. I treated the rust this afternoon for the heavy rust. Then put it in the electrolysis tank. Rust free now. Started the sanding, im a few steps in now and pretty confident I make make it look pretty good.

Is there a trick to getting the flywheel knob off? Lefty loosey all you need to know? I have 2 flywheels and the slotted screw feels like its welded in there. Thought perhaps there may be a trick.

Not mandatory, but would make polishing easier if it would come off.

[david-bartlett]

quote George Emmanuel:

The ACBS members who are anal about their chrome use Graves Plating in Florence Alabama. gplating@aol.com and there is a good shop in MN, JR Custom Plating, JR@JRCustomPlating.com

The Rustoleum product is called Stainless Steel. The only issue is you MUST shake it thoroughly and continue to shake it in between coats. The stainless steel appearance comes from what I call flecks and if you don’t shake it well they can clog the nozzle.

I did spray a heavily pitted tank with an “Chrome Aluminum” that turned out beautiful,—-until I sprayed the clear coat and that made it gray.

George

George,

I had a similar experience on a Bendix Twin that I painted. Looked awesome until the clear coat turned it grayish.

Chris S,

One of these days I will find one of these rudder twins and participate, but you can bet I enjoy following along on these topics. I am sure many others do too.

[Author]

Posts