Evinrude 28 HP SPL miscellaneous market and model questions

[outbdnut2]

I have a 1996 Evinrude 28 HP “SPL”   – yeah it’s not all that old, but is almost 30 years, in fact it’s the newest of my dozens of motors. It came on a 1997 “Smokercraft 16 Resorter” boat that I bought a few months ago to fish larger lakes with. Boat is rated for 50 HP max.  The guy I bought from said he bought the boat new and it came from the factory with that 28 SPL.  It’s a long shaft, model E28ESLEDR – I assume the S after the E means SPL model.  The rest of the model coding I understand.

I’m just wondering what market, etc., the SPL was targeted at.  It seems to be a stripped-down version of the 25-30-35 HP motors made since 1976.  It has no transom clamps (although diagrams at Marineengine show transom clamps), so has to be bolted to the transom.  It doe NOT have through-prop exhaust (a surprise for as new as 1996!), and has the older split-gearcase design that goes back to the 1950s, but with a splined propshaft (I’ve only found two props available for it).  No power tilt/trim.

After giving it some  usual TLC (hadn’t been run for 10 years) , it runs great, has 120 PSI compression, and does what I need it to do.

I’m just wondering if this was a cost-reduced model made exclusively for boat manufacturers to put on boats at the factory?  Maybe de-rated to 28 HP for market-positioning purposes? …..or is this a “Commercial” model like some of the later 40 HPs?   I appreciate any thoughts about this, just to satisfy my curiosity.  That 28 HP was made from 1986 to 1996, but the S  in the model number after the first E didn’t appear until 1987.  There was only one 28 HP model each of those years, with the model number only changing to designate the year.  The 28s those years were long shaft and for remote control only.  Also wondering if the only powerhead difference between it and a 30 or 35 HP was the carb?……..or……does not having through prop exhaust knock the HP down from 30 to 28?  

Thx for your insight on this!

Dave

[frankr]

Your guesses are as good as mine. But I see that—
“E” = Electric start.
“S” = Sail.
“ES” = Electric Start-Special
“L” = Long Shaft
Take your pick. The “S” Sail makes sense if the idea was the older lower unit/prop was to give it better power in reverse without the thru-prop exhaust being sucked into the prop. By any chance is it possible to run at higher throttle setting (maybe even WOT) in reverse? That would clinch it as being a sailboat motor.

[crosbyman]

Interesting comment on sucking exhaust in reverse…I have a small  1970s  Merc 4hp  EXTRA long 25 incher I suspect was  intended as  a sailboat  kicker. It has  prop exhaust .    Winter project to do cosmetic work on it.

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[outbdnut2]

Thanks Frank and Crosbyman for the comments.   It never occurred to me that the S in the model number could mean “Sailboat”.   I’m thinking a sailboat motor would have different shaft length models, but maybe it was up to dealers or boat manufacturers to extend the shaft to 25 or 30 inches if needed?

It does not run faster in Reverse than any other of my dozens of old OMCs  up through 40 HP with shifts, so that doesn’t  point toward sailboats.   I suppose it’s possible that Smokercraft Boats had a huge order of them so they managed to get the reverse max speed modified for their order?….but no change to the model number?    I don’t know if OMC would do that.

Most fishing boats  like this one with pedestal seats, livewell, half deck with helm, etc.,  have more HP, but the 16′ boat, having  the trade name “Resorter” on it, was probably targeted at resorts where a lot of  guest fishermen (and women) without a lot of boating experience could be driving it and lower HP would be a safer option.  28 HP will also troll slower for fishing than a 40 or 50 if it is tuned right.

Dave

[fleetwin]

OK, well these engines were targeted towards economy minded buyers.  Like you say, the 28SPL was only available in long shaft with electric start.  I’m confused about your comment about no clamp screws, it should indeed have clamp screws!  Post a picture or two of what you have.  The 28SPL is pretty much the 30hp, they just called it a 28 to differentiate it from the 30hp.  These are great engines, nothing wrong with the clam shell gearcase.  It has a decent ball spring clutch dog set up, so gear jumping should not be an issue.  This engine is definitely not designed for sailboat use.   This is not a commercial model either.    Boat builders may have used these models for lower price package rigs as well.  The “S” after the first “E” just denotes a “special model” to help differentiate it from the 30hp model numbers.

These were great engines, but all the usual advice about using in salt water applies.  Get that gearcase and extension off early on for service and lube up all the screws, especially that long stud that goes through the extension housing.  1996 was the first year for the “system check” wiring and waring system.  Yours may have the harness to convert it back to the old style (red plug) wiring, which is fine for this engine….This engine only has one warning/fault connected to the warning horn:  overheat.  So, if the horn goes off, it is overheated..The horn should “self test/beep” every time the key is turn on though to confirm it is functioning.  This engine, like the 30hp only has about a 4amp alternator, so don’t expect much output to keep a lot of accessories running.   OMC never offered a power tilt accessory for any of these models, but you can get them aftermarket.

[outbdnut2]

fleetwin wrote:

I’m confused about your comment about no clamp screws,

Hey Fleetwin – Thanks for the info about my 28 SPL – good summary!

Disregard my comment about the transom clamp screws – it has them, and additionally, it has been bolted on.

For the transom clamps, my aging brain must have confused it with the 2 HP Minnkota 48 Volt Electric motor on my girlfriend’s pontoon that I worked on a couple months ago, which was a pain getting it off and back on the pontoon while standing in the lake, with nothing to even set on the transom to hold it while bolting on.  Her crowded metro-lake is restricted to “non-combustion engines and less than 10 MPH” .

Yes – It has the warning system you mentioned, and I hear the beep when I turn the key on.  Good to know it only beeps when overheating.  I replaced the impeller and housing, as someone must have run it dry – it pumped at higher speeds, but no telltale at idle, and I found part of the impeller had melted, and re-solidified after running down into the housing and, as you probably well know,  there was no scraping that loose.

After some needed TLC, the motor performs great.  The only downside I’ve found (which I expected) is this motor, like other 25s and 30s of similar design that I’ve fixed in the past,  has a fairly wide throttle range between slow idle and faster cruising where runs a bit rough (4-cycling, etc.) as the carb switches from low speed needle to high speed jet.  Noticeably wider throttle range running rougher that than most other motors!   I understand this is a well-known trait of this design, and not a problem for my usage.

Dave

 

[fleetwin]

A valid complaint for sure.  These engines will never have idle/midrange like the old 18hps we love.  I attribute this to that darn recirculation system.  Dial in the carb so it idles real smooth, and it will probably have an occasional lean spit or stumble in the midrange.  You usually have to leave them a little rich to alleviate the lean spit.  Needless to say, it is super important that the engine gets up to temp or it wont idle worth a darn.  It is surely fine to alter the cam pick up slightly either way to improve off idle running quality.

[crosbyman]

If it was  the recirculation  causes the problem  could  removing the upper hose a few minutes help to  see if  idling improves ?   I know the hose is to  drain/redirect  the CC  of excess juices  puddling and  “helps”   oil the upper bearing  but a quick test could confirm this.  IF the upper bearing gets enough oiling from the fuel-oil mix  one option would be to redirect the  lower CC juices

To to bad two line hoses /tanks  have been phased out… one could use one side and  redirect the excess oil/fuel back to a modified tank to remix

see utubes on “purged oil collection” on oldies

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[fleetwin]

Well, it is my opinion that the recirc systems on these engines have caused a bit of an variance in the two cylinders.   With the recirc systems, there is no way to obtain a great idle mixture for both cylinders.  You almost would need two carbs to dial in each cylinder.  The latest systems where the output of the recirc hose is dumped back into the carburetor throat seems best.    It is important to remember that there are a few check valves in this system that must be checked in order for the system to work best.   It is also important that the engine be trimmed out just slightly for extended idling to make sure the excess crankcase puddling is directed towards the recirc valve in the intake manifold.   This can be a nuisance/inconvenience on these engines with no power trim/tilt.

Again, it is super important that these engines get up to temp at low RPMs, the warmer/hotter the better.  Not to worry, the pressure relief will cool it down again at higher RPMs.

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