Evinrude 38 spl

[fleetwin]

Yeah, can’t imagine the log strike is related to the mag plate issue. This issue will have to be dealt with, even though it may not be the actual cause of the problem you are experiencing…
Start with replacing the plastic del rin bushing under the mag plate, part number 322435. While the mag plate is off, have a close look at the brass busing on the mag plate along with the aluminum pilot bushing on the block. You are in trouble if there is wear in either of these areas. You can try to replace the mag plate, hopefully that and a new del rin bushing will resolve the slop issue.
It is extremely important to lube these pieces properly during installation. The brass bushiing is lubricated with the OMC moly lube. The best lube for the plastic bushing is plain old outboard oil, just squirt a bit of it on the new plastic bushing and spread in liberally outside and inside the groove of the bushing.
I suppose the lower retainer plate (that is screwed to the block) could be worn, although unlikely, but have a look at it anyway. Be sure to use a few drops of loctite on the four screws holding the retainer plate to the block…
For now, you should test the sensor and charge coil under the flywheel with an ohm meter. It might be best to replace them even if they test OK if the flywheel has beat them up, you will have the mag plate all apart anyway.
Again, this mag plate issue may or may not be causing the problem. But, you need to start here. Have a close look at the wiring under the flywheel, perhaps it is chafed/damaged creating an open/short circuit when the mag plate is advanced. The new sensor and charge coil will have long leads so will solve any wiring issues that may be present. Please do not just try to “splice these components in place using the existing wiring”….
This engine does have a little alternator, so you will need to check that stator wiring with an ohm meter also. May as well replace this component if the flywheel has beat it up as well. Finally, you will need the alignment ring to make sure these components are properly positioned during assembly. The new components will rub on the flywheel if set “too far out”, ignition and alternator outputs will be low if the components are set “too far in” from the flywheel magnets.
If all this sounds like too much of a project, I’m sure you can find a decent used mag plate assembly on ebay….

[Geer Pyron]

Thanks again for all the input!
We, my friend who belongs to the motor and I, put it all back together and it runs like it should.
We followed all the advice except for replacing parts.
Var strange indeed!
I assuming at this point it was a magneto/stator/ lectrical issue that got resolved when we put it back together.
I hate not knowing fo sho tho.
But, an outboard mechanic I know and like said the problem was with the block, the raised bearing surface that the brass sleeve part of the mag plate sits around.
And a new block is in order.
Is there no other fix?
This has been good practice for me since I have just gotten a 1977 35 hp evinrude.
Var similar motors. So much so that I blurted out that we could swap mag plates. He had fishing.clients coming into town today. He didn’t take me up on the offer. Phew!
AnywY, thanks again!
Geer
I’m going to try to post a picture of the problem area.
More as practice posting pictures, but also so things can be mo betta visualized.
G
Maybe of it running before and after it got “fixed” too.

JMGP

[Geer Pyron]

Runs as it should.
Close your eyes and just listen.
Ha!

JMGP

[billw]

szaniszlo43 wrote:

Check the woodkey under the fly wheel.

Yeah, I would have gone with this idea, too…..Oh well.

Long live American manufacturing!

[fleetwin]

Can’t really tell from your picture, but are you saying that the aluminum pilot bushing is worn? if so, did you also say you have ordered a new crankcase to solve the problem? This seems like a very expensive and time consuming repair, spending much more than the old engine is worth. OMC may have made some repair kits for this issue, but not sure if they were made for the CDII system. In any event, I would certainly try a new mag plate and plastic bushing before condemning the crankcase….Might not be perfect, but will be “good enough”. You can also shim the electrical compnents back .005-.010″ from the line up ring to compensate for a little wear as well…
Again, please don’t spend all that money and time replacing the crankcase….And, if you do, be sure to replace the mag plate and plastic bushing also.

[Geer Pyron]

Fleet,
Yea, my mechanic friend said it was the block, the pilot bushing which is part of the block that is worn. And hecks no we didnt buy or order a new block! What I wrote is that the mechanic dude said that was the problem and to fix it (properly!) a new block would be needed, in order.
We put it all back together without replacing anything and it goes as it should!
We will eventually replace the plastic ring and mag plate I guess.
And the black melted sensor too.
But it goes for now.
Oh, while I’m thinking about it, how hard would it be to shim the pilot bushing/ mag plate? That was what I had thought to do.
The mag plate only turns as much as the throttle is advanced and slowed.
No high speed stuff there. It seems like it would be fairly simple to have a brass ring made that slips over the pilot bushing filling the space between it and the brass sleeve in the plate.
No?
But hey, it runs.
Thanks,
Geer

JMGP

[fleetwin]

I’m glad I misunderstood! I’m sure it would be possible to add some sort of ring to the pilot bushing, but it would be awful tough/expensive to machine the surface down so some sort of ring could be added. Chances are the brass bushing in the mag plate is worn also, so the mag plate would have to be replaced also. I’m thinking that a new mag plate and plastic bushing will take care of this situation pretty well…
When I spoke of “shimming”, I was referring to positioning the electrical components on the mag plate. The electrical components can be adjusted in and out just slightly on the mag plate to achieve the proper air gap between the laminations (and sensor pickup) and flywheel magnets. There is a special ring 315001 that is used to set these gaps properly. positioning a .005″ feeler gage between the laminations and coil ring tool sets them back just slightly. This is usually enough to compensate for pilot bushing/bushing wear without affecting electrical outputs.
In any event, a new plastic bushing, properly lubricated usually helps out a great deal also…

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