Home Forum Ask A Member EVINRUDE 70HP LANYARD KILL SWITCH

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  • #7321
    joellerich
    Participant

      I HAVE A 1992 EVINRUDE E70TLEND. THIS IS A TILLER WITH A LANYARD KILL SWITCH. THE PREVIOUS OWNER DISCONNECTED THE UNGROUNDED KILL SWITCH WIRE INSIDE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. DOES ANYONE HAVE A MANUAL OR KNOW WERE THIS WIRE GOES. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED
      THANKS

      JOHN

      #59622
      chinewalker
      Participant

        US Member

        If memory serves, it’s a black wire with yellow tracer on the power pack.

        #59627
        fleetwin
        Participant

          US Member - 2 Years

          Can you post a picture?

          #59635
          joellerich
          Participant

            I will try to post a picture in the next few days. Engine is at a remote location.

            #59795
            joellerich
            Participant

              The attached Image shows the wire that was cut by previous owner. The wire comes from the ungrounded side of the Lanyard switch. The wire goes to the power pack. I am not sure which component in the picture is the power pack. Need help

              Thanks

              John

              #59838
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                John
                Is the model number: J70TLEND or J70TTLEND? The reason I ask is because the model number you posted is for a remote control version of this engine, the model number I mentioned is for the Tiller controlled model. So, if the model number you mentioned is correct, this means the engine was converted from remote control to tiller control by the dealer/owner. I am very concerned because I see those two butt connectors above your fingers which means the original wiring harness was messed with…The rectangular black box behind your fingers is the power pack….There are two main harness’ coming out of the power pack, we are looking for the black/yellow lead that is coming out of the powerpack. It may be in one of those two harnesses, or it may be a single lead coming out of the power pack. Unfortunately, it looks like this engine has had many electrical parts replaced, and none of the wiring is where it should be.
                That single lead coming from the tiller stop switch you have in your hand might be its ground lead, or it might be the lead that is tied into the stop circuit (black/yellow lead) in the engine’s harness. Can you find the other lead coming out of the tiller stop switch?
                Does the engine shut off when you turn the key switch off? The black/yellow lead on the key switch ties into the black/yellow lead on the tiller handle, eventually leading to the powerpack. The engine is shut off when the black/yellow lead is grounded, either through the key switch or tiller stop button, this drains the powerpack’s capacitor.
                Keep in mind that the tiller stop button might be disconnected because it is broken/shorted. Unfortunately, this was a common problem…The owner may have opted to just eliminate the stop button instead of paying $75 for a cheesy new tiller stop button….
                I will try to find a wiring harness that may help you out…
                Don

                #59886
                joellerich
                Participant

                  Thanks for all the info. The model # is E70TLEND. I tend to agree with you about someone converting this unit from a remote control to a tiller. It has a cable that looks like it was a remote cable. I have not had time to check out what looks like a remote cable to see what wires it has and the colors. I found a wiring diagram at the public library, but it was for a 1998 model.The single lead in my hand is from the ungrounded side of the kill switch. The kill switch is good. Have not had time to check the key switch operation. Am working on doing a lot of boat remodeling at the same time. You have been very helpful. I hope to give the engine wiring issues number one priority next week. Thanks again, I will keep you posted.

                  John

                  #59901
                  fleetwin
                  Participant

                    US Member - 2 Years

                    How do you know the tiller stop switch is good? A ohm meter test can not confirm proper operation, the ohm meter can’t analyze possible arcing situations. Like I say, these switches were not the best quality, and failed frequently. Do you know what leads those butt connectors are on? You sure don’t want butt connections anywhere in the harness, especially on the stop circuit!
                    OK, so the engine was originally a remote model, someone converted it….And, we don’t know if they used the proper kit with proper wiring harness, or just kind of cut and pasted the wiring….
                    I will look for a wiring diagram when I get home, but fear that it won’t resemble anything you have. I’m guessing the previous owner/tech just cut into the original wiring….Is the key switch on the engine or in the boat? Does the engine have the big red plug on the stbd side? I’m sure we can make the wiring work properly, it’s just a matter of making nice connections, as few as possible….
                    Feel free to post more pictures of the engine, its wiring, key switch, etc…

                    #59935
                    joellerich
                    Participant

                      I will post info late this sat or sun thanks

                      John

                      #59942
                      amuller
                      Participant

                        Fleetwin:

                        Do you consider butt connectors unacceptable in all cases, even when properly crimped and pull tested? (Granting that "properly crimped" can be difficult to define/confirm.)

                        What, then, is the proper approach to restoring the integrity of a bodged-up harness?

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