EVINRUDE trigger coil

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  • Mumbles


    Replies: 5764
    Topics: 298
    #171261

    I’ll give it a shot. I see your listed as Canadien member, are you up there? We visit my cousins in Cape Breton in the fall.

    Yeah, I’m here but I’m on the West Coast. Victoria BC


    Rick Robbins


    Replies: 68
    Topics: 18
    #171262

    Thanks Fleetwin, I’ll give a short description of what I have.
    1- The motor is mounted on a stand with a 12v battery.
    2- I have no control box (will be looking for one eventually)
    3- Turning the motor over with a remote start connected to the solenoid.
    4- Have the trigger coil now removed and laying on the bench.
    5-Have a known good coil laying on the bench (4 pin-no quick start wire).
    6-compare similar wire ohm readings between both connectors and get manual stated results on the known good coil and the indicated 0 ohms on my removed coil.
    So these are both being measured on a bench, removed from the motor.
    I’m going to try Mumbles suggestion of piercing the wires near the coil to measure again to eliminate bad wires going to the connector.
    I appreciate the time you are taking to offer your experience and am not offended by any assistance I get here.
    Oh yeah, forgot to mention, my meter was set on it’s minimum setting for all the readings.
    I won’t be able to get back to it for a few days myself.
    Thanks to everyone for the responses so far,
    Rick


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #171265

    OK, well if there is no control box hooked up to the engine, the safety key switch stop circuit should not be the issue. But, there could still be a short/ground in the powerpack stop lead somewhere in the engine harness. So, the pack black yellow lead should be disconnected/removed from its amphenol connector. Do you have the amphenol pin tools? If not, it can be kinda tough to work on this system. Please do not cut leads or pierce them in order to check outputs/resistances. Use isopropyl alcohol to lubricate the rubber connectors and make pin/socket removal installation easier. Do not spray any other lubes/oils into the rubber connectors, these can actually conduct electricity and cause nasty problems down the road.

    Fiinally, you cannot compare the quikstart sensors to the older plain sensors. The older sensors are simpler three simple windings connected together with a common lead. The newer quikstart sensors are relatively complex electronically, and will have no similar testing procedures or outputs. You have the flywheel and sensors removed from your engine, so check one more thing for me…..The flywheels on these engines had two sets of magnets, the large ones glued to the outer rim of the flywheel, and the little sensor magnet ring glued to the inner hub of the flywheel. Try grabbing the inner sensor magnet ring and twisting it on the inner hub. You should not be able to move the inner sensor magnet ring, the flywheel is NG if you can twist/move it….

    OK, so you just bought this engine and have never had it running. Was it sold to you as a running engine? If so, seems kinda strange that it has not spark…. For now, try finding the powerpack stop lead, it is a black lead with a yellow tracer. Some of the engines/powerpacks have a convenient stop lead that is connected with a single amphenol connector, making it easy to disconnect to eliminate possible ground issues when checking for spark.

    Again, unfortunately, I am away from home and service manuals, so don’t have pictures/procedures/test results handy for your engine. But, I think/hope the problem is a simpler one than the sensor assembly. Whenever I “get in too deep”, I always back up to “the basics”. The basics for this engine are checking powerpack and coil grounds. I “think” the ignition components are mounted on some sort of bracket on your engine, perhaps it is not grounded. Check all four grounds between their ground leads/straps and the negative battery cable post on the exhaust manifold. Using the low ohms scale, resistance readings should be less than one ohm. Next, I would disconnect/pull apart all those pesky amphenol connections to check for bent/pushed out pins/sockets, use the isopropyl alcohol in the rubber connectors to ease reassembly.

    Finally, I will ask something I should have asked first. How are you checking for spark? Are you using a spark tester or just watching for spark with the plugs/removed and grounded against the block?
    Again, please to shell out the big bucks for the new sensor ring just yet, and please do not pierce or cut leads in an effort to test outputs/resistances. The amphenol pin/socket tools are really a must for working on these systems. What manual are you using to check this system? The OMC manual, or some aftermarket one? Aftermarket manuals tend to be very generic and confusing. Feel free to post pictures of manual pages relating to troubleshooting, perhaps I can help walk you through some procedures while I am away…..Don

    • This reply was modified 5 years ago by fleetwin.

    Rick Robbins


    Replies: 68
    Topics: 18
    #171272

    It was given to me and was told it was fine. When I initially checked the spark (using a neon plug tester) I had spark on cyl 2. Cyl 1 plug wire was missing the coil end connector in the wire cap. Replaced that but then had no spark on any cyl. It’s an OMC factory manual.

    Maybe I should get one of the Amphenol plug wire removal tools before I go any further.

    I’ll get back to it on Mon or Tues and send manual page pictures at that time.

    Thanks again for digging into this for me, sounds like I might have led myself astray by comparing the two different sensor readings.


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #171274

    The amphenol pin tools can be kinda pricey, but definitely worth having for working on the OMC CD systems. Perhaps there is a member in your area that would let you borrow them…..
    OK, you have a factory manual, that is great…
    Kind of sounds like the engine was running, but maybe a bit “cannibalized” before it was sold….Someone may have messed/swiped something that is keeping the engine from sparking.
    You are using neon testers to check spark, could be misleading….Sometimes the simplest test equipment, like a spark tester, can create a lot of confusion. I am assuming you don’t have a traditional spark tester with an adjustable air gap. These engines are supposed to produce a spark powerful enough to jump a 7/16-1/2″ gap while cranking at normal cranking speeds. Once the engine is back together, perhaps just check for spark with the plugs grounded to the block, just make sure there are no gas fumes/spray coming from the cylinders while cranking…..
    Feel free to post close up pictures of your engine, perhaps someone will spot something simple….
    Don


    Rick Robbins


    Replies: 68
    Topics: 18
    #171448

    Fleetwin, here are the photos you were looking for. Maybe we’ll get this solved yet.
    Rick
    P.S. I just went and cleaned all the grounds you suggested and now I have spark on all three cylinders!!!
    This was a learning experience for me to be sure. You also saved me from unnecessary expensive of a new trigger base. I see what you meant when you said I can’t compare ohms readings for different part number triggers. I was convinced mine wos bad, NOT SO! I don’t know when I’ll get to try and fire it up, but for now I just excited to have the spark functioning!
    Thanks for your persistent effort and the suggestions from others on this board, really made a difference for me.
    Rick

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    • This reply was modified 5 years ago by Rick Robbins.
    • This reply was modified 5 years ago by Mumbles.

    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #171492

    Cool! I know that most times when I “get in too deep, I have gone too far and overlooked/misinterpreted the basic stuff”…
    I’m glad you have the correct manual, try to read up on how that QUIKSTART feature works. The synchronization of carbs and ignition can be kind of confusing also. Are you going to use the VRO oiling feature, or just mix 50/1?

    PS Be sure to torque that flywheel properly so you don’t end up with a sheared flywheel key/ galled crankshaft/flywheel tapers….D

    • This reply was modified 5 years ago by fleetwin.

    Rick Robbins


    Replies: 68
    Topics: 18
    #171498

    Looks like I’ll be using the fuel mix since I don’t have the oil tank. I already plugged off the oil hose at the fuel connector and disconnected the associated plugs to run on a mix.
    I’ll have to go back and check the flywheel torque, tough to hold this one with a rubber strap wrench. Don’t see a spot on the flywheel to mechanically jam it from spinning while tightening the nut. FOUND ONE! Using the lifting strap for pry bar support.
    Thanks again,
    Rick


    Rick Robbins


    Replies: 68
    Topics: 18
    #172540

    Just an update, fired up the engine on a stand and it sounded great. I would say that the problem was grounds. They usually get cruddy after sitting without use for about 15 years! I most likely will not get to restore the boat I intended to use the motor on, since the only free time I would have in the winter outside in the Northeast. The warmer seasons are taken up with other boating activities. I just didn’t want to have a broken motor sitting in my cellar. Just can seem to leave a problem alone.
    Thanks for all the help,
    Rick


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #172576

    Cool, don’t forget that engine has QUIKSTART and SLOW….With the engine running on a flushette, QUIKSTART probably would not kick in because the RPM is too high. But, you will hear it when you start the engiine on the boat….Engine will run a bit rough at dead idle when cold, as the timing advances and retards…Once the engine warms up sufficiently, the idle RPM should drop down a bit and the engine will run smoothly. Review your manual, and go ahead and activate the SLOW feature when the engine is on the boat. The engine will run normally until about 2500RPM, then it would sound like a gattling gun and the RPM will be held back. Remember SLOW can only be disengaged by shutting the engine off, even if the sensor is not grounded.
    I would recommend mixing the fuel/oiil a little heavier than 50/1, these engines have tight fitting pistons, kinda prone to scuffing sometimes…
    I’m glad the solution was basic, we are all guilty of overlooking the basics sometimes, myself included….

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