I’ll check into all the recommendations in the AM as it is the current motor ‘on the line.’ Today was a long work day at my ‘other’ job, but look forward to putting this one to rest tomorrow. This was one of the motors where I picked it up for $50, and the previous owner, who was an auto mechanic, decided to try his hand at an old outboard but only wound up dumping cash into new parts that he didn’t know how to install. He gave up, and I am tasked with undo-ing his work and getting the motor back to where it belongs. The nice thing, however, is that the cowel received a full makeover because apparently he also did body work, and did a pretty nice restoration of the cowel with a really nice clear coat. I’ll post a picture after the jobs done.
It’s always nice when you pick up motor that somebody installed all new parts, but didn’t understand how to install them right and made more work for the next guy. The ignition system is 100% new from his investment (less 1 coil which was shorted, THANK YOU MERCTRONIC MODEL 98), spark jumps a solid 3/8th to 1/2 inch, almost 5/8th inch (which is great for an ‘ol magneto), the driveshaft housing had no roll pin for the lower crank oil seal, the impeller housing had an o-ring on top of the driveshaft gearcase oil seal (there’s a first for me, apparently someone didn’t realize the shift shaft was the issue), and in all likelihood, the carb probably is missing a seal or two. The float he installed wasn’t even close to the right setting.
I had repaired the ignition and fixed an air leak in the gearcase, and on initial run of the motor, found that it was GUSHING gas out of the flooded carb, which is when I pulled it apart to find the float set completely wrong. I’ll double-check my work to see if I missed that venturi orifice gasket and for the seal under the float brass orifice. If those don’t fix things, I’ll double check everything else again and check the fuel pump diaphragm. I don’t think it’s that though because the fuel is pouring out of the carb throat, although you can never rule out multiple problems at the same time. I think if it wasn’t for the ignition being tops, the thing might not even run at all because it would be so flooded. I pulled the plugs and they were shiny metal and dumped gas right out of them. Let’s just say it’s not necessary to pull the choke to get it to fire off 🙂
I did have an odd situation which I was hoping someone could shed some light on. When I was reinstalling the gearcase I broke/bent/ruined 2 separate roll pins trying to get everything lined up. It was as if the roll pin was going past the lower seal brass cup and getting hung up in the spring. This isn’t my first rodeo with these 6hp motors, but for the life of me, I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t cooperating trying to reinstall the gearcase.
I wound up pulling the powerhead, installing the gearcase, then putting the powerhead on the driveshaft. I yanked the powerhead because I wanted to be sure that the brass lower seal cup hadn’t been ‘honed’ out or simple worn out to a larger inside diameter somehow which was allowing the roll pin to go past it instead of compressing everything up against the lower crank. It appeared to be OK at closer inspection. Everything went back together correctly then. The roll pin seemed to be getting stuck on something as I was installing from the bottom up initially; and I did try rotating the prop to get it to slip past the little ‘sneak slots’ at the bottom of the powerhead. What was I missing?
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