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April 7, 2015 at 12:22 pm #13466
I know just what youre referring too with the slot. And I made sure to use the correct roll pin and install with the seam facing DOWN (sort of like the 9.5hp recoils, but those pins have the seam installed sideways to avoid tearing up the plastic engagement gear).
I was scratching my head because I bent 2 pins before yanking the powerhead. Maybe I just didnt have things lines up right, but I spent a half hour trying which almost never happens anymore with reassembly.
April 7, 2015 at 2:40 pm #13475I pulled apart the carb but can’t see any issues (I’ll replace the needle just to see if that corrects things). The gurgling noise is still present, seems to be emanating from the manifold. Both the boss gasket and needle seat gaskets are OK. I’ll replace them both just to be safe. tHere is a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iu-0UR6wIfM
Fleetwin I pulled the fuel pump and the noise is still coming from the motor with the pump removed; so I believe that should rule out a bad pump diaphragm.
I pulled over the motor with a rope about 4 times to try and expel any pooling of fuel in the crank that might have been left over, and didn’t see any change in the amount of ‘gurgling’ I could hear.
Any ideas?
Video replies: Please post here instead of Youtube so we can all see them, thanks.
April 7, 2015 at 2:52 pm #13478UPDATE:
Fleetwin, I stand corrected. I took 1 step further and hooked up the fuel line, with the pump off the motor. Primed the fuel line and the pump started squirting fuel out of the diaphragm hole.
I switched out the boss gasket on the carb and no more flooding. Just goes to show that appearances can be deceiving; the original gasket was the neoprene/rubber type and still flexible, but must not have been pliable enough to still make a seal.
I will reassemble everything in the next 1/2 hour and report back.
April 7, 2015 at 3:43 pm #13483well, the gurgling noise must not mean much, or perhaps it was extra fuel that was pooled up in the motor, because it seems to be running just fine now after the fuel pump and boss gasket repairs.
Side question – I ended up replacing the thermostat because the original had failed. The newer ones don’t have the little relief slot on the top, was that simple to help the motor get up to temperature faster? I was thinking that if there was an air pocket, this could keep air in the cylinders if the newer style thermostats ever failed and stayed shut.
Thanks
April 7, 2015 at 4:21 pm #13486They usually fail by staying open.
. . . . . . 😕
April 8, 2015 at 12:00 pm #13532Like you say, the fuel pump diaphragm probably is NOT the cause if the fuel is running out of the carb. PLEASE DO NOT disassemble that fuel pump to check for a broken diaphragm. The pump does not have to be disassembled to check for a leaky diaphragm.
April 8, 2015 at 12:38 pm #13533Yeah, like I posted before, I just hooked up the gas line and gave the bulb a squeeze and it was flowing out of the diaphragm hole. Problem identified 🙂
This motor had a few different things going on at once, fortunately I found all of them and it’s A-OK now. These 6’s sure are quiet little motors when they have good compression for low idle and no rod-knock.
April 8, 2015 at 10:11 pm #13560OK, glad it is resovled. I’m sure that new style thermostat has some sort of little bleed/bypass, it just isn’t easy to see.
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