Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Flywheel magnet remagnetizing
- This topic has 18 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 8 months, 2 weeks ago by crosbyman.
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March 1, 2024 at 9:59 pm #285446
Coil resistance is 1.2 ohms primary and 13.6 kohms secondary. Quite a ways from 4 to 8.
March 2, 2024 at 12:56 am #285449Your resistancc seems correct. Good way to check points timing is : See the coil, it has 3 magnetic contact shoes or laminations. When the magnets contact shoe number 1 & 2 then come to shoe 2 & 3 exactly when the points open or should open. Use a ohm meter connected to points & ground & mark flywheel magnets on outside with straight edge. At that time in rotation the magneto has the most electrical energy & should be firing. If you don’t have an magneto condenser tester try a lawn mower shop as they have condenser load tester hopefully.P.S. Every magneto uses these pricipsls except C.D.I. magnetos.
P.S. I have made coils fire bt using a “D” sized battery, flywheel removed & connect battery to coil points connection & ground, with points closed open points with a nonconductive (wood) splinter & you should get a spark at the removed spark plug & the points. Do not connect the battery any longer for the test as the system is not made for battery power & will overheat. I’ve checked cars this way for years. Either magnet or electrical energy works.
Good luck
March 2, 2024 at 8:21 am #285454well… 13.8k seems a lot … personaly I don’t like them being so high..just a suspicion
measure the old ones if you still have them and compare. where did you get them ? di you use carbon fiber wires .
did you measure on the HV pin also ..between hv pin and one primary wire ?
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March 2, 2024 at 8:35 am #285455front coil is the top cyl. make certain wires are not crossed over
..confirm ohms value HV PIN to primary winding
where did yoy get coils from ?
spark plug type /# …..??
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March 2, 2024 at 10:43 am #285457Make sure the wire connecting screw on the points is not shorted to the frame of the points. The screw should be insulated. I had aftermarket Blue Streak Points that when you tightened the wires on the screw, it would shift its position and ground out. Drove me crazy (crazier).
March 2, 2024 at 1:27 pm #285461Each windingm primary & secondary has two ends, primary winding ends (2) go to ground & points, measure there, Secondary winding also has two ends one going to ground & the other to the spark plug wire. Measure there only measure at the hi voltage terminal on the coil to get accurate measurment of coil & not including plug wire, as it may have issues. Measure plug wire by it’s self to check. Note: If your spark plug wire has problems to avoid shipping costs go to your local neon sign shop & buy G.T.O. (gas tube only) neon wire by the foot, get Hi Flex type wire. It is rated at 15,000 volts @ 60 cycles alternating current which is plenty good for a magneto. I have used it in many magnetos and neon lighting that runs on 15,000 volts. Save money that method.
P,S.The ground wires from your coils are connected together inside the coil so the ground comming out are a common connection except some other coils (old Johnson brand) but we won’t go there today. As brought up hopefully your secondary windings were done with quality copper windings & insulated with quality insulating varnish from the factory. No telling what materials they used!!!
Good luck!!
March 2, 2024 at 1:39 pm #285462Crosby Man.
You are correct. High resistance can mean more secondary windings which is good or poor grade copper wire, high carbon for high resistance or a blow out in the insulation from shorting out, not connected to a spark plug & energised. It has made electrical energy & if it has no where to go it may arc to the mag plate or ground making a high resistance ( carbon spot) in the windings making a hi resistance secondary winding reading You choose which one to believe!
March 11, 2024 at 4:29 pm #285810Call me sparky but don’t pay me by the hour. Decided to disassemble more completely than I had so far before building it up again. While easing the the cam up the shaft to inspect and polish I realized it was turning freely on the crankshaft. Eureka! The rough surface on the cam combined with breaker point cam follower pressure put enough drag on the cam to keep it from turning. All possible because the drive pin #302578 was missing. Made a new one by cutting the end off a 5/32 twist drill and I now have plenty of spark on both plugs when turning over with a rope. As suggested by forum members and confirmed by Great Lakes Chapter guys the problem was not caused by a weak flywheel magnet at all. Closing out this string from my end.
March 12, 2024 at 7:54 am #285843302578…..very interesting 🙂 sneaky little thing ain’t it
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