Flywheel Removal

[smjaws1]

I am not sure what I need other than more patience. I picked up a nice 1957 35hp Johnson, and am in the process bringing it back to life. On day 6 trying to remove the flywheel as the coils are in need for replacement. I have a puller on the wheel with probably 60-80 lbs of torque, been soaking with PB blaster and SeaFoam, along with applying heat. Any advice will be appreciated. Also to my surprise the motor has a generator, I suppose that’s a good thing although trying to find a regulator along with a gauge is as successful as me pulling the wheel. Again any and all advice will be appreciated

[chris-p]

You can use a Harley regulator. Ill post the model type when I get home, if no one beats me to it.

Make sure you are using grade 8 bolts, threaded in about 7/16" deep into the flywheel. Tighten it up as much as you can, some models I have had to use an extension bar on the handle to tighten down the center nut more. Pry up gently on the flywheel, and give the center puller bolt a quick RAP with a hammer. She should pop free.

[bullie]

I have had good luck tapping around the edge of the flywheel with a rubber mallet on the tough ones.

My impact drill usually pops them right off but sometimes they are stubborn. When they are usually a couple taps with the mallet will do the trick.

[dan-in-tn]

What type puller are you using? Has to pull from the hub. Hardened grade 8 bolts & thick washers work best. They are only 1\4 X 20 so you only get one good chance! Other than that your getting good advice from everybody else.

Dan in TN

[frankr]

1. Use a good puller with Grade-8 bolts screwed in 7/16"
2. Tighten puller bolt.
3. Tighten it some more
4. Pry upward on flywheel just enough to lift it in the bearings.
5. Give puller bolt a whack with a hammer. NOT a sledge. It’s the shock that does it not the brutal bash.
6. Tighten puller bolt and repeat 4 & 5.
7. Don’t be so gentle. It will come off
8. Forget the PB Blaster and Sea Foam. And forget the heat.
9. Get mean. Did I mention tighten the puller?

Heck, the 35 isn’t even a tough one. You should try a 40HP

[outbdnut2]

I had trouble with those 35s and 40s until I bought the OMC puller. I surfed the web until I found a reasonable price. It worked great where generic ones didn’t. I also found it helps to tighten the center bolt on the puller with a 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench (same kind you change tires with) – the impact action seems to help a lot just don’t overdo it if the flywheel is stuck bad – I also use that air impact tool to remove flywheel nuts – you don’t have to hold the flywheel to get the nuts loose! Do not use it to put the flywheel nuts back on,as you can quickly over-tighten and break things.
Dave

[david-bartlett]

If you want to do it without hurting yourself or breaking something, then get one of these.

OMC part #0378103.

[rapier]

quote david bartlett:

If you want to do it without hurting yourself or breaking something, then get one of these.

OMC part #0378103.

Best money I’ve ever spent on one of these. Does the job time after time.

[outbdnut2]

quote david bartlett:

If you want to do it without hurting yourself or breaking something, then get one of these.

OMC part #0378103.

That’s the one I bought a year ago – worth every penny!
Dave

[Pete]

To be safe with all that torqued in pent-up energy in the puller I always loosen the main crank shaft nut but leave it in place about 1/8"or so above its full tight position. Flywheel with puller attached can and do fly off quite dramatically once popped. On my 22 c.i. Mercs the flywheel is on with 65 ft lbs and it takes 80 – 90 ft lbs to get it to pop, and it sounds like a gun shot 😯 and sometimes I think something broke 😆 Make sure the puller shaft is centered in the crank shaft lathe center with the cone shaped tip. I use a regular auto harmonic puller like this with big flat washers and two – 1/4-20 bolts threaded in deep with a puller base parallel to flywheel plane, the puller is quite hefty:

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27187-H … nic+puller

[Author]

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