Flywheel removal advice

[MossLandingPaul]

I’m removing the flywheel from a 65′ Johnson super sea horse, 40hp. First attempt on removal of a flywheel this size, everything else I’ve worked on has been smaller.
Having a heck of a time removing it. I modified a strap wrench to hold it while using a breaker bar on the nut but it’s on there! Who knows when it was last off,
at least a couple of decades i think. Even got a strapping young friend of mine to hold it as we both gave it our best to no avail!
I’m thinking of using either an air driven or electric impact wrench on the nut, what do y’all think?
I have not attempted any other way to hold the flywheel besides the strap wrench. Don’t see anything I could brace against on the powerhead to wedge the flywheel teeth
without possibly damaging the castings.
Also, have not tried any pentrating oil or heat to the nut itself, think this would be of any use?

[frankr]

So, you are saying you can’t remove the nut? Yeah, an air impact wrench will get it off. That’s what I always use.

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MossLandingPaul

[MossLandingPaul]

Thanks Frank, I’ll give it a try.

[garry-in-michigan]

[sze=23Be aware they (OMC) used a different method to hold the Flywheel on those models. Early failures of the woodruff keys on the early models caused them to rethink how the flywheel was held n place. They reduced the size of the key to make more accurate and changed the flywheel tape and increased the torque on the propeller nut. So as you tighten the nut to the recommended 105 foot pounds’ the bottom ef the taper expands to fit making a joint that is almost welded. Schedule 8 bolts must be use. That much pressure on the big key flywheels tended to cracx at the key slot. Tho OMC flywheel puller is highly recommended.

Some beat on the center puller bolt with a heavy hammer. This can cause stress in the crankshaft as it sits on the thrust bearing. So’ LIFT the flywheel to take advantage of the end play and give the center bold a sharp rap with a small hammer. – Good Luck ![/size]

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MossLandingPaul, 2fast4me

[garry-in-michigan]

[sze=23]Be aware they (OMC) used a different method to hold the Flywheel on those models. Early failures of the woodruff keys on the early models caused them to rethink how the flywheel was held n place. They reduced the size of the key to make more accurate and changed the flywheel taper and increased the torque on the propeller nut. So as you tighten the nut to the recommended 105 foot pounds’ the bottom ef the taper expands to fit making a joint that is almost welded. Schedule 8 bolts must be use. That much pressure on the big key flywheels tended to cracx at the key slot. Tho OMC flywheel puller is highly recommended.

Some beat on the center puller bolt with a heavy hammer. This can cause stress in the crankshaft as it sits on the thrust bearing. So’ LIFT the flywheel to take advantage of the end play and give the center bold a sharp rap with a small hammer. – Good Luck ![/size]

[crosbyman]

I always use a 1/4 inch impact driver with the attachement for sockets even use it on car wheel nuts works ok and won’t demolish anything

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1 user thanked author for this post.

MossLandingPaul

[garry-in-michigan]

Not Propeller nut – FLYWHEEL NUT

How do you correct typos anyway –

[fleetwin]

Once the nut is off, you will need the OMC flywheel puller to get that flywheel off…

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MossLandingPaul

[geary]

I’ve found adding a long pipe large enough to slide over the strap wrench handle and the breaker bar with the correct 6 point socket will almost always break the nut loose ! Then using a good quality flywheel puller is a must for breaking the flywheel loose from the crankshaft !

Geary

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MossLandingPaul

[crosbyman]

use the EDIT function but after a while it is removed…

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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