Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Gear Case
- This topic has 19 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 7 months ago by johnny-infl.
-
AuthorPosts
-
March 23, 2017 at 9:42 pm #6597
Replaced all seals and O-rings in RD-19 35hp lower unit. Having trouble lining gearcase housing together. Does it matter which side the shift rod goes between the shaft? The other problem I think is lining up the retaining ring. Put it together dry twice, installed shift rod pin, thru a couple bolts to hold it together, worked great FN&R. Took apart, new seal, 847 grease, put back together, slid right together tighten bolts, prop shaft locked up tight. Already went thru 2 seals. I put at least a dozen of these together and never had any problems. Any ideas? Is there a way to clean up these spaghetti seals and use them over again?
March 24, 2017 at 12:23 am #54784Too much grease on the top of the drive shaft ? ? ? This can fill the space above the shaft and put excessive pressure on the pinion gear. . . 😕
March 24, 2017 at 12:36 am #54785I have had limited success cleaning partially set 847 off a spaghetti seal by pulling it through a rag soaked with acetone. I buy it on a 50 foot roll though and usually just end up cutting a new one when I mess one up.
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
March 24, 2017 at 1:55 pm #54804I’m not sure I am following the question. Whenever I have trouble with the case, it seems that one of the location pins for the seal housing or the prop-shaft bearing is not properly seated. If you are sure that they are, then the problem may be that the pinion is binding. I have not done a 35 in a while. There may be something more complex there. On the 25/30 the pinion just runs in a cone bearing, not much to go wrong there.
March 24, 2017 at 3:41 pm #54812Necks – here is the RD-19 case I opened up a few months ago as I received it.
oh – I also used the prop shaft as a hammer – nitwit thing to do, I know . . . .
it mushroomed the end out just enough so that when all the bolts were
installed, it pinched the shaft just enough to the point it would not turn [at all].
so in the process of eliminating the simple things, check the prop shaft for
any kind of deformity.
I thought it would have been much, much harder than it actually is !!!
now I understand how easy it is to bend a shaft when the prop hits something.[Note to self: use the correct tool for the job].
,
March 24, 2017 at 4:02 pm #54817Probably nothing to do with the current situation, but just a FYI, notice the retaining ring is tapered on one side, and the groove likewise.
March 24, 2017 at 10:28 pm #54824I am going to clean up again this weekend, and see if it goes together the way it should.
Johnny, I like the picture, I will check it with mine.
Frank, Should the retaining ring stay up like the picture shows, or should the ring be pushed down deeper into the other groove, when I install the halfs together.?
Thanks for the help. Gene.March 25, 2017 at 12:53 am #54831March 25, 2017 at 1:20 am #54834Johnny, Getting ready to attack the lower unit this weekend. When you put the lower unit back together in the picture, did the retainer ring stay up like it shows in the picture?
I learned the hard way also, being a retired machinist, I learned how to use a dead-blow hammer, much easier on equipment and works just as good. Good tool to have in tool box.March 25, 2017 at 2:35 am #54843if you have the leg upside down, as pictured, look at the bottom half
of the clam shell – – – you will see that there is a spot for the retainer nub that sticks up.
the spring clip eyes should also be vertical – centered up.
if you don’t have the specific parts book that shows proper orientaion of all the parts,
it is available on Marine Engine..
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.