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  • #985
    mike n
    Participant

      US Member

      Hello.i have a 1963 evinrude 40.i have a generator that looks like the correct one.can I hook up an inexpensive automotive style regulator under the cowl? I’m looking to do this as cheap as possible.if anyone has any ideas can you give me an idea on how to wire it?thanks

      mn

      #12490
      chris-p
      Participant

        EDIT:

        Ok I cannot find the link, but I believe I got mine from JP Cycle when I restored a motor for someone.

        You do not want a mechanical regulator, or regulator-rectifier. You need a 10 amp regulator.

        Your best bet is the ACCEL solid state regulator specifically for 1978 to 1981 Sportster or ’77, ’78 XCLR Model.

        Use the part number 74504-78 to search for the Harley part, or part number 381-329 for JP Cycle, or part number GHD6101 for Arrowhead, or part number 230-22053 for J & N.

        #12493
        frankr
        Participant

          US Member

          wrenchero, the reason you can’t use a car regulator is because no car that I’m aware of has only a 10 amp charging system. The regulator has to limit it to that to protect from burning up the armature in the generator

          The solid state Harley is a good substitute, according to all I’ve heard. Never have personally tried it.

          #12517
          mike n
          Participant

            US Member

            Thanks for the great info. Is the wiring pretty straight forward or anything special to do

            mn

            #12520
            chris-p
            Participant

              I haven’t seen a lot of different regulators, but should be 3 leads off of it.

              An Armature, Field and Battery.

              The Yellow wire from the Generator (the large stud) goes to the Armature on the regulator.

              The Blue wire from the Generator (the small stud) goes to the FLD connection on regulator.

              The Brown wire from the regulator (Battery) goes to the GEN post on your ammeter (if present), and then on to the BAT connection on your key switch.

              The other wire from the Ammeter (if present) goes from BAT post on ammeter, is usually green, and goes to the same large post of the starter solenoid that the incoming POS wire from the battery is connected to.

              #12559
              garry-in-michigan
              Participant

                Lifetime Member

                From the ’63 service manual … Mechanical shift does not have electric shift wiring


                . . . 😉

                #12581
                mike n
                Participant

                  US Member

                  thanks.is this the cheapest alternative.are there any original regulators out there or are they mostly gone

                  mn

                  #12583
                  joecb
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    There is a mechanical 12 V, 10 amp regulator that is available from NAPA … Echlin #VR306. Don’t know the cost. But it looks like it would work on this application.

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