Ground Problem?

[fleetwin]

Just want to make sure I am not misunderstanding the problem here…
This is a situation of no cranking, correct? Or, is the condition that the engine cranks fine but won’t start?
I don’t want to add to confusion…D

[beerman57]

The odd condition is the one I described, but right now it’s a no crank situation with only 5V out of the solenoid. Hopefully the odd condition will be fixed when the start problem is fixed. I even put a known to be good key switch on last summer when these problems started showing up. Sounds more and more like a bad ground?

[fleetwin]

OK, so there are two issues:
normal crank-no start
no crank
correct?

[beerman57]

Well yes, it used to turn over good, but they somehow figured out that after jumping across the big posts on the solenoid, it would start normally with the key. I don’t know, I’m far from being any kind of expert, but that just boggles my mind. Now it’s 12.8V into the solenoid and only 5V out. The solenoid closes very well with the key switch, but I’ll check the yellow/red wire anyway, and of course check the grounds.

[fleetwin]

OK, well I am confused as to just what the symptoms are….

[jerry-ahrens]

I guess I’m also confused on the symptoms. Why not just use a jumper wire to supply positive voltage to the yellow/red stripe wire at the solenoid? Then see if it cranks normally.. Or just use your portable starter switch. This will rule out the boat wiring. Where is the ground wire attached to the powerhead? I’ve seen people attach those in some strange places. Could the powerhead itself be binding in some way? Or, maybe the starter is to tight on the flywheel? I have seen all of these things at one time or another. You may just have worn brushes in the starter causing this. By jumping across the solenoid’s large posts, it may be giving it the extra boost it needs to overcome a worn out starter. Also, I have learned the hard way, many times, that just because a particular component is ”new” doesn’t mean it is good. I’ve chased my tail many times because I skipped testing a new component that was previously installed. You may just want to take Don’s advice and get out the manual, and start from the top.

[beerman57]

Before this no cranking over problem, they would turn the key, the motor would turn over good but not start, jump the big solenoid posts just for a second, go back to the key and start the motor right up. That’s what gets me – what does jumping the big posts "fix"?

[fleetwin]

Well, it might just be a coincidence that the engine started after jumping the solenoid…
Keep something in mind on these engines, "quikstart" is triggered on by the red/yellow lead as well, so a fault there might affect quikstart operation as well.
Most people do not really understand how to properly start one of these engines, and rarely use electric primer correctly…
So, I would solve the cranking problem, then worry about the alleged no start issue….

[jerry-ahrens]

Ok, now I get what your’e saying. I’ll bet Don’s right about the quick start… most people don’t know the correct procedure. Squeeze the primer bulb untill firm. Do not advance the throttle when starting. Crank the motor over, THEN immediately push in on the key while the engine is cranking, and the quick start will do the rest. If you push in on the key [in the on position] before cranking the engine you will flood it out. Those engines actually start very well if everything is working correctly. Keep in mind that a draggy starter or a weak battery will result in hard starting problems, or the motor may not start at all.
Don, correct me if I’m wrong on the starting procedure, but that’s the way I’ve always done it.

[fleetwin]

Well, those big engines are pretty tough to flood with those little primer hoses. I have also found that those newer style key switches (modular wiring-system check) can be tricky to turn and hold in for priming, sometimes they like to shut off when released.
And yes, leave the throttle at idle, pump up the fuel bulb, crank the engine with key in (prime valve on). Like I say, it is pretty tough to flood one of these big engines with the primer.
Advancing the throttle while cranking cold defeats the quikstart feature, but it is OK to start it the older conventional way. You will usually have to tap the key in a few times while the engine is warming up. I suppose one of the reasons OMC came up with this quikstart "razimataz" is to help ensure that people didn’t over rev the engines in neutral. Unfortunately, very few owners understand how the primer/quikstart works, and still have trouble starting cold engines….
I always loved watching people pumping the throttle control lever in neutral before starting the engine, as if there was an accelerator pump in there!

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