Help getting my 67 Evinrude 3hp started

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    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1610
    Topics: 196
    #195603

    don’t forget to clean the 2 vent holes in the tank cap. if you look VERY closely under the cap there is a small metal disk with 2 notches

    rotate the little plate and find the 2 holes aligned with the notches then run a paper clip in the 2 holes

    with the cap loosened you should see light in the holes

    http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Evinrude%203%20HP%20Lightwin%20Outboard%20Boat%20Motor/Evinrude%20Johnson%203%20HP%201952-1967%20Carburetor%20Tune-UP.htm
    http://www.maxrules.com/fixtuneitup.html
    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ignition-Coil-Fits-For-Johnson-Evinrude-OMC-Replaces-584477-0584477-582995-CA-/193328227519?hash=item2d0342a4bf

    btw gas filtering … you can always hook up a small paper filter on the fuel line to the carb

    https://www.amazon.com/Cococart-Universal-Filters-Motorcycle-6mm-7mm/dp/B074C4T4WS?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Avatarcrosbyman.
    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Avatarcrosbyman.
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    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3303
    Topics: 49
    #195612

    The guy in the Johnson video totally missed the filter. When he unscrewed the adapter fitting from the tank (with difficulty), the filter was still in the tank. Normally, the filter is soldered to the adapter fitting. On the Johnson video, the filter is stuck in the tank outlet and he tore the solder joint loose as he removed the adapter fitting. On your Evinrude, the filter has come loose from the adapter fitting and was laying loose in the tank, and you fished it out.

    Either way, those filters were never intended to be cleaned. You were supposed to replace it, filter and adapter, as a single piece. Yeah, yeah, I know, some people claim they can be cleaned. Whatever. I’m just saying how it is supposed to be.

    Your Evinrude probably has crap in the carburetor, keeping it from starting. The fuel has to pass through the main metering jet (orifice plug), which is only about 0.030 inch diameter. Such a small hole is easy to plug up with goop or particles.

    What I’m saying is you need to do a complete fuel system cleaning, tank to carb. And put it back together with a good filter

    And while you have the tank off is a good time to check the coils. It would be very common to find them cracked.. You are wasting your time until they are replaced, if they are cracked.

    Frank, I’m confused as usual….I realize the filter had broken off the adapter and was still in the tank on that Johnson video…I also noticed that adapter came out of the tank with difficulty…Did this guy do something wrong when he removed the adapter??

    frankr
    frankr


    Replies: 5234
    Topics: 48
    #195617

    He did nothing wrong. What was wrong was the filter was crudded up in the tank. It should have come out easy, with the adapter. Probably a load of stale, rotten gas varnish. If it’s any help, I’ve seen a number of them that way.

    mercuryman
    mercuryman

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 416
    Topics: 159
    #195660

    There is spark at the plugs and there is good spark. A bad coil will produce a spark with .025 inch gap, but it takes a good coil to jump .25 inch gap. Open up the gap on plugs and see what happens.

    Avatar
    Elecmuso


    Replies: 38
    Topics: 1
    #195663

    Flywheel is off.

    Coil

    Both wires on both coils to plug lead output measure 4.75kOhm (which I gather is correct).
    Plug lead to upper plug is open circuit (what should the resistance measurement be?) so I suppose there’s my problem.
    Where should I get these and are they difficult to replace?

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by AvatarElecmuso.
    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by AvatarElecmuso.
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    frankr
    frankr


    Replies: 5234
    Topics: 48
    #195670

    So the wire itself is open? Probably at the plug boot end, there is a spring in there that penetrates the insulation to contact the wire core. Pull the boot off for a looksee. A good dose of WD-40 will make it come off easier.

    Avatar
    Elecmuso


    Replies: 38
    Topics: 1
    #195682

    The boot seems very tight – not all that flexible. I assume it should just pull off leaving the plug connector connected to thewire?

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    Elecmuso


    Replies: 38
    Topics: 1
    #195683

    Well I pulled at the boot/wire until something gave way. Wire came out. So then I was able to extract the spring / pin part. I was also able to confirm that the wire coming from the coil was indeed OK and that the spark plug connector had in fact not been making contact with the wire core. So I assumed it was just a matter of shortening the wire by say 1/4″ giving the insulated wire a nice clean cut, then drove the pin with pliers back through the core of the wire. Checking with a multimeter confirmed that the circuit from coil to spark plug was no longer open circuit. Pushed the plug spring connector back through the rubber boot and reconnected the plug.

    Now should I be able to test the plugs are both now getting a proper spark, by re-fitting the flywheel and turning it? Presumably this turning has to be done at sufficient speed?

    Avatar
    Elecmuso


    Replies: 38
    Topics: 1
    #195684

    Well I can’t get a park from either plug now. At the beginning I had spark on both (one was a bit weak). Don’t know what I’ve done!

    lindy46
    lindy46

    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 338
    Topics: 24
    #195688

    I guess you realize that the wire is disconnected from the front coil in your photo? Those coils have been replaced but condensers and plug wires look original. Can’t see the points. If it were mine, I’d replace the condensers and wires (and maybe the points ) or at least dress and clean the points. Make sure points are set to. 020″ at the high point on the Cam.

    frankr
    frankr


    Replies: 5234
    Topics: 48
    #195690

    Well I pulled at the boot/wire until something gave way. Wire came out. So then I was able to extract the spring / pin part. I was also able to confirm that the wire coming from the coil was indeed OK and that the spark plug connector had in fact not been making contact with the wire core. So I assumed it was just a matter of shortening the wire by say 1/4″ giving the insulated wire a nice clean cut, then drove the pin with pliers back through the core of the wire. Checking with a multimeter confirmed that the circuit from coil to spark plug was no longer open circuit. Pushed the plug spring connector back through the rubber boot and reconnected the plug.

    Now should I be able to test the plugs are both now getting a proper spark, by re-fitting the flywheel and turning it? Presumably this turning has to be done at sufficient speed?

    Only commenting because you asked. Yes it has to be turning at sufficient speed. Use the notch in the flywheel for a knotted rope wrapped around the groove and give it a pull as if you are trying to start it.

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    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1610
    Topics: 196
    #195691

    anything can happen with flexing wires….
    why not just star from the beginning and redo the electricals …

    pull the mag plate
    change wires with new 7mm wire(metallic) core plug wire….. reinstall the mag plate
    inspect polish clean the points and set at .020 on the high point of the cam …or invest in new ones
    change the plugs and set at .030
    reinstall everything check for continuity from plug booths to ground to confirm 4-7koms
    condensers may be good for now….
    install the flywheel , spin with a drill with plugs not installed and check for good snappy spark if bad try new condensers

    IMG_0016

    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by MumblesMumbles.
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    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3303
    Topics: 49
    #195693

    Sounds like ;you may have gotten in too deep here. Both coils look fairly new, clean and regap the points like Frank says. I hesitate to advise ripping the mag plate all apart to replace the wires, you mentioned having spark on both cylinders….I’m guessing you realize the air gap on those coils needs to be reset once you pulled them off. I’m sure you don’t have the locating ring, so line the coil lamination up flush with the mag plate machined surfaces just below the coil legs….Be sure to tighten everything down again…..The flywheel will need to be properly torqued also, which usually requires a strap wrench…A loose flywheel nut will shear the key, and over tightened nut will damage the flywheel….
    Did you pull the fllter/valve out of the tank yet? Have you had a look inside the tank?

    Avatar
    Elecmuso


    Replies: 38
    Topics: 1
    #195709

    lindy46
    Yes I realised I had the wire disconnected at the time of that photo. Did so just to measure the continuity of the plug lead. It is properly back in place now

    fleetwin
    No I did not realise that the air gap needed to be reset once the coils had been off. I will try what you suggested re coil lamination.

    I have a feeling the lack of spark may just be because I am not turning the flywheel with sufficient speed.

    Avatar
    Elecmuso


    Replies: 38
    Topics: 1
    #195718

    I reassembled the pull start with gas tank then rested it on top of the chassis without bolting it in so that I had a means of turning the flywheel at a better speed. Spark was there on both plugs.

    Also roughly checked the coil alignment / airgap using the method fleetwin mentioned though it was already pretty close.

    So I’ll get back to cleaning up the tank, replacing the gas line and adding an external fuel filter (part on ebay you can recommend?).

    Fleetwin, I will use a torque wrench so that I can bot that flywheel down properly!

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by AvatarElecmuso.
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