Help with 65′ Evinrude Fisherman 6HP

Home Forum Ask A Member Help with 65′ Evinrude Fisherman 6HP

This topic contains 94 replies, has 16 voices, and was last updated by Avatar bakercheese 1 year ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 95 total)
  • Avatar
    t-bell

    Replies: 44
    Topics: 1
    #9296

    Hey y’all first time posting here! Pulled an old engine out a couple years ago got it running and then not long after stopped getting spark to the top cylinder, pulled it back out the other day and figured I’d get it going again. After replacing all the magneto components and watching a YouTube video on how to disassemble diagnose and repair I realized I’m missing what’s​ called the Oiler Wick Clip, after contemplating just glueing it in place with gorilla glue or coughing up the outrageously​ pricey 35$ for the miniscule piece of metal, I decided to make what I’m assuming is the right decision and go ahead pay for the clip. My question is if there are two one on each side or just one on the upper piston side? Also any tips for setting the points (seems simple enough) and tuning the engine as well as how to put the flywheel back on would be very much appreciated!!!

    Avatar
    jerry-ahrens
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1015
    Topics: 70
    #71562

    Gosh, I’m sure we can come up with the oiler wick holder without having you shell out big bucks. If Ed Elliot sees this, I’ll bet he can take care of you. And yes, there is only one wick required. You can set your points if you use a .020 feeler gauge to carefully measure the gap while on the ”high”side of the cam, usually marked as such. The flywheel will need to be torqued to spec. Someone will post that, as I don’t remember off hand..
    I know I continually harp on not using Sierra Points, but I would recommend only using BRP Johnson Evinrude points and condensors.

    Avatar
    t-bell

    Replies: 44
    Topics: 1
    #71566

    Thanks for the quick reply Jerry! Unfortunately I already bought 2 of em from marineengine.com because I’m trying to get it back on the water asap lol, I wouldn’t mind getting in touch regardless for parts in the future though as I’m going to have the engine pretty much forever and I’m sure this won’t be the last time I need something obscure lol. SWEET 😀 thanks for the info!! I thought so but wasn’t 100% sure, I’m not sure about the torque either but I think its 40foot pounds if someone else could chime in that’d be great. I actually bought both (just for shits and giggles) a set of BRP and Sierra points and condensers, installed the BRP Points and condensers and Sierra coils. Also is there any service that needs to be done to the fuel pump or anything else? Changed lower end oil, did the impeller and a carb kit last time it was running.

    Avatar
    crosbyman
    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1111
    Topics: 147
    #71567

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj … e=youtu.be

    the picture shows the TOP section (high point) where the point rubbing block should centered be for a basic adjustment of the gap at.020

    the voltmeter method is more accurate (utube video)
    and the Richard White sold tool is the easiest and most accurate

    points should…. just open as measured with an ohmmeter with pointer between the bars

    see link/story on OMC cheapy fuel pumps
    http://aomci.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15030

    coils cheap..
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2xIGNITION-COI … 2592241227


    Attachments:

    frankr
    frankr
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 3939
    Topics: 43
    #71578

    Flywheel nut torque is 40-45 foot pounds

    Ignorance is simply a lack of education. Ignorance can be cured. There is no cure for Stupid.

    lindy46
    lindy46
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 245
    Topics: 18
    #71579

    Flywheel nut torque is 40-45ft.lbs. Set the points when the rub block is aligned with the flywheel key, not the word "top" on the cam. "Top" merely means that the top of the cam is up (so you don’t install it upside down.

    Avatar
    crosbyman
    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1111
    Topics: 147
    #71582

    this came up before and I, wrongly maybe, have used the TOP section… to no ill effects (motors run ok) I always felt that (looking ) \TOP/ created the widest gap position recommended which I would then set at 20

    the tool itself shows that the KEY does not line up with the tool’s pointy arrow and is offset by maybe… 15 degrees indicating it does not use the key itself as the high point for the rubbing block.

    is this why the gap itself needs to…just begin to open when the tool is used,,,that being the firing point on the plugs….leaving the point gap to continue "widening as it reaches the TOP marking ????

    btw I am now using the tool 🙂


    Attachments:

    Mumbles
    Mumbles
    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3923
    Topics: 395
    #71598

    I don’t think it’s the end of the world if the wick is missing as older vehicles with points went for thousands and thousands of miles with just a light coating of grease on the cam. Periodic resetting or replacement of the points is mandatory anyway.

    Avatar
    t-bell

    Replies: 44
    Topics: 1
    #71601

    Thanks for sharing the video crosbyman! I’ll set them using a feeler to start and then use either the YouTube method or I might improvise with something similar to Richard’s tool which is used in this video if I’m now mistaken?

    Both seem to be very accurate just much easier with his tool so you don’t have to repeatedly pull and install the flywheel over and over.
    Overall between both the videos and cajuncookones 7 parter I think I’ve got a really good hang of what I’m going for.
    I just haven’t seen someone put the flywheel back on or know the torque specs?

    Avatar
    t-bell

    Replies: 44
    Topics: 1
    #71603

    Much appreciated FrankR and indy46!!! Thanks for the final torque specs and speedy response! Im pretty sure top is the widest point just by looking at it and from everything I’ve gathered crosbyman is correct (for my engine at least) nonetheless​ the idea is to have the circuit open (points not touching) until the Top or Bottom Mark on the flywheel passes directly between the two marks on the armature at the exact right time for BOTH top and bottom cylinders if I’m not mistaken.

    Avatar
    t-bell

    Replies: 44
    Topics: 1
    #71605
    quote Mumbles:

    I don’t think it’s the end of the world if the wick is missing as older vehicles with points went for thousands and thousands of miles with just a light coating of grease on the cam. Periodic resetting or replacement of the points is mandatory anyway.

    You know i thought the same thing myself and about just glued the thing where it should sit but its an old family motor that we’ve had since my uncle bought it new in 65′ and as much as I wanted to get it running again and take it out I figured why not do it right since I intend on having it forever…. but trust me the thought was there hahaha

    Avatar
    crosbyman
    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1111
    Topics: 147
    #71606

    see picture

    btw here is where I had picked up the habit of using TOP to set my points before using the VOM or with Richard’s (FR) tool

    it came from the MAX rule site…

    To set the points, move the cam until the point arm follower is touching the cam at the "TOP" embossed thereon. Set them at .020 with a feeler gauge cleaned of all oil with denatured alcohol, acetone or lacquer thinner. The feeler gauge should slip out from between the point faces with a light resistance and the arm should not appear to move when the gauge is removed. Care taken to set the points exactly the same will result in a strong spark and a smooth running engine.


    Attachments:

    Mumbles
    Mumbles
    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3923
    Topics: 395
    #71609

    To find the highest point on the cam, lightly rock the motor back and forth (with the plugs removed) to visually see and feel the highest point. You have 46 degrees to play with so it’s in there somewhere. Just don’t turn the motor too far in its opposite direction of rotation or you can fold the impeller blades over backwards making for more work.


    Attachments:

    Avatar
    crosbyman
    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 1111
    Topics: 147
    #71610

    Thanks Mumbles.. in conclusion seems eye balling is a good start and some tuning after with the "tool" or the VOM 🙂

    squierka39
    squierka39
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 259
    Topics: 14
    #71611

    If you have the proper tool for setting points there’s no reason to eyeball it then fine tune it, just set it with the tool and ohm meter ond enjoy a fine running motor. And don’t check your gap after, you won’t like it. I’ve had them either to big or both different, but if it’s set to open at the right time and 180 degrees apart, as the factory style tool does, then the gap doesn’t matter. It seems some aftermarket or worn points will do this.
    By the way, those 6hp are great little motors. I’ve got Johnsons ‘66 version. It ideas really well with a fine tune up.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 95 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.