February 25, 2018 at 2:18 am #9296
Hey y’all first time posting here! Pulled an old engine out a couple years ago got it running and then not long after stopped getting spark to the top cylinder, pulled it back out the other day and figured I’d get it going again. After replacing all the magneto components and watching a YouTube video on how to disassemble diagnose and repair I realized I’m missing what’s called the Oiler Wick Clip, after contemplating just glueing it in place with gorilla glue or coughing up the outrageously pricey 35$ for the miniscule piece of metal, I decided to make what I’m assuming is the right decision and go ahead pay for the clip. My question is if there are two one on each side or just one on the upper piston side? Also any tips for setting the points (seems simple enough) and tuning the engine as well as how to put the flywheel back on would be very much appreciated!!!
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 70February 25, 2018 at 2:38 am #71562
Gosh, I’m sure we can come up with the oiler wick holder without having you shell out big bucks. If Ed Elliot sees this, I’ll bet he can take care of you. And yes, there is only one wick required. You can set your points if you use a .020 feeler gauge to carefully measure the gap while on the ”high”side of the cam, usually marked as such. The flywheel will need to be torqued to spec. Someone will post that, as I don’t remember off hand..
I know I continually harp on not using Sierra Points, but I would recommend only using BRP Johnson Evinrude points and condensors.February 25, 2018 at 3:41 am #71566
Thanks for the quick reply Jerry! Unfortunately I already bought 2 of em from marineengine.com because I’m trying to get it back on the water asap lol, I wouldn’t mind getting in touch regardless for parts in the future though as I’m going to have the engine pretty much forever and I’m sure this won’t be the last time I need something obscure lol. SWEET 😀 thanks for the info!! I thought so but wasn’t 100% sure, I’m not sure about the torque either but I think its 40foot pounds if someone else could chime in that’d be great. I actually bought both (just for shits and giggles) a set of BRP and Sierra points and condensers, installed the BRP Points and condensers and Sierra coils. Also is there any service that needs to be done to the fuel pump or anything else? Changed lower end oil, did the impeller and a carb kit last time it was running.February 25, 2018 at 3:45 am #71567
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj … e=youtu.be
the picture shows the TOP section (high point) where the point rubbing block should centered be for a basic adjustment of the gap at.020
the voltmeter method is more accurate (utube video)
and the Richard White sold tool is the easiest and most accurate
points should…. just open as measured with an ohmmeter with pointer between the bars
see link/story on OMC cheapy fuel pumps
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2xIGNITION-COI … 2592241227
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 43February 25, 2018 at 1:21 pm #71578
Flywheel nut torque is 40-45 foot pounds
Ignorance is simply a lack of education. Ignorance can be cured. There is no cure for Stupid.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 18February 25, 2018 at 1:26 pm #71579
Flywheel nut torque is 40-45ft.lbs. Set the points when the rub block is aligned with the flywheel key, not the word "top" on the cam. "Top" merely means that the top of the cam is up (so you don’t install it upside down.February 25, 2018 at 1:49 pm #71582
this came up before and I, wrongly maybe, have used the TOP section… to no ill effects (motors run ok) I always felt that (looking ) \TOP/ created the widest gap position recommended which I would then set at 20
the tool itself shows that the KEY does not line up with the tool’s pointy arrow and is offset by maybe… 15 degrees indicating it does not use the key itself as the high point for the rubbing block.
is this why the gap itself needs to…just begin to open when the tool is used,,,that being the firing point on the plugs….leaving the point gap to continue "widening as it reaches the TOP marking ????
btw I am now using the tool 🙂
Canada Member - 2 Years
Topics: 395February 25, 2018 at 6:26 pm #71598
I don’t think it’s the end of the world if the wick is missing as older vehicles with points went for thousands and thousands of miles with just a light coating of grease on the cam. Periodic resetting or replacement of the points is mandatory anyway.February 25, 2018 at 6:49 pm #71601
Thanks for sharing the video crosbyman! I’ll set them using a feeler to start and then use either the YouTube method or I might improvise with something similar to Richard’s tool which is used in this video if I’m now mistaken?
Both seem to be very accurate just much easier with his tool so you don’t have to repeatedly pull and install the flywheel over and over.
Overall between both the videos and cajuncookones 7 parter I think I’ve got a really good hang of what I’m going for.
I just haven’t seen someone put the flywheel back on or know the torque specs?February 25, 2018 at 7:02 pm #71603
Much appreciated FrankR and indy46!!! Thanks for the final torque specs and speedy response! Im pretty sure top is the widest point just by looking at it and from everything I’ve gathered crosbyman is correct (for my engine at least) nonetheless the idea is to have the circuit open (points not touching) until the Top or Bottom Mark on the flywheel passes directly between the two marks on the armature at the exact right time for BOTH top and bottom cylinders if I’m not mistaken.February 25, 2018 at 7:07 pm #71605quote Mumbles:
You know i thought the same thing myself and about just glued the thing where it should sit but its an old family motor that we’ve had since my uncle bought it new in 65′ and as much as I wanted to get it running again and take it out I figured why not do it right since I intend on having it forever…. but trust me the thought was there hahahaFebruary 25, 2018 at 7:33 pm #71606
btw here is where I had picked up the habit of using TOP to set my points before using the VOM or with Richard’s (FR) tool
it came from the MAX rule site…
To set the points, move the cam until the point arm follower is touching the cam at the "TOP" embossed thereon. Set them at .020 with a feeler gauge cleaned of all oil with denatured alcohol, acetone or lacquer thinner. The feeler gauge should slip out from between the point faces with a light resistance and the arm should not appear to move when the gauge is removed. Care taken to set the points exactly the same will result in a strong spark and a smooth running engine.
Canada Member - 2 Years
Topics: 395February 25, 2018 at 9:22 pm #71609
To find the highest point on the cam, lightly rock the motor back and forth (with the plugs removed) to visually see and feel the highest point. You have 46 degrees to play with so it’s in there somewhere. Just don’t turn the motor too far in its opposite direction of rotation or you can fold the impeller blades over backwards making for more work.February 25, 2018 at 9:29 pm #71610
Thanks Mumbles.. in conclusion seems eye balling is a good start and some tuning after with the "tool" or the VOM 🙂
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 14February 25, 2018 at 9:42 pm #71611
If you have the proper tool for setting points there’s no reason to eyeball it then fine tune it, just set it with the tool and ohm meter ond enjoy a fine running motor. And don’t check your gap after, you won’t like it. I’ve had them either to big or both different, but if it’s set to open at the right time and 180 degrees apart, as the factory style tool does, then the gap doesn’t matter. It seems some aftermarket or worn points will do this.
By the way, those 6hp are great little motors. I’ve got Johnsons ‘66 version. It ideas really well with a fine tune up.
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