February 26, 2018 at 2:17 am #71628
Thanks again for all the incredibly helpful responses you’ve all been very helpful thank you Mumbles, crosbyman, squier, FrankR, Jerry, indy46 and anyone I’m forgetting! I’m going to go ahead and order the timing tool since it’s the bee’s knees apparently. Should I get the coil tool as well? I was able to get them to line up really darn flush from what I can tell with a straightedge and my fingers.February 26, 2018 at 2:38 am #71630
Agreed squeir that’s exactly what I’d gathered, clean the contacts one last time before you set them, use the tool and ohm meter to set it, then tighten her down, leave it and repeat for cylinder 2.
I know!!! I know!!! 😆 🙂 when I first got it running it was alright, but after a carb rebuild and fidilling with the oil fuel mixture knob had it running great then it lost spark to the top cylinder but before that little thing was kicking ass!!
Any advise on how to set the mixture knob now that I think of it? I cant remember what I read last time about itFebruary 26, 2018 at 3:42 am #71635
I set them with the feeler gauge for 20 years before they came out with the tool. I guess practice makes perfect because when i rechecked with the tool, I was dead on. If you have problems it’s usually because of a loose bearing on the crankshaft or breaker plate. . . 😀
March 1, 2018 at 8:33 pm #71789
Just wanted to give you guys an update and and a huge thanks to everyone who responded!
Got my timing tool and coil placement ring in the mail Wednesday and got everything times in perfect and put back together last night. Took a couple of pulls to get her going initially but now she fires right up first pull now!
Only problem being it SCREAMS like a bat out of hell when it runs in neutral in the tank but after putting it on the boat and running in a lake under power, it doesn’t get going even half as fast as it does in neutral and only seems to be going out about a 1/4 of full power. Seems like it must be a carb issue or maybe fuel/oil screw?March 2, 2018 at 12:58 am #71798
back to square one… what were your compression numbers
and… you should not let it scream in neutral in the tank… everMarch 2, 2018 at 1:23 am #71800
Haven’t checked but it’s definitely good, i can feel it, and I had it running like a top before about 2 or 3 years ago before it lost spark to the top cylinder. Went and checked for spark and nothing to the top cylinder again! Pulled everything back apart and BOTH the new coils aren’t reading anything from the secondary winding.March 2, 2018 at 1:25 am #71801
and I wasn’t aware, I didn’t think it hurt to rev it it up a bit in the tank?
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 29March 2, 2018 at 1:38 am #71802
It will rev up great running on one cylinder for sure, but have no power once in gear. Are you sure you have spark on both cylinders? If so, how are you checking for spark?March 2, 2018 at 2:48 am #71805
Spark was only going to bottom cylinder, nice strong blue spark, nothing to the top at all, pulled top spark plug and put it in bottom boot and it works fine same strong blue spark. No I don’t have an actual spark tester. Checked brand new spark plug wires with meter (again) both have good continuity. Checked primary windings on both new Sierra coils and they’re good. Checked secondary windings in brand new coils and they’re bad from what I can tell using a meter as previously described and shown in the YouTube videos, unless I’m doing something wrong which I’m pretty sure I’m not but hey I’ve been wrong before….March 2, 2018 at 3:29 am #71807
Sounds like a bad spark plug. Although that isn’t much of a test. The resistance across the spark plug gap is much higher under compression. You can cut off the side electrode and use that to check for spark OR use a length of clear flexible plastic with an inside diameter the size of the spark plug wire. In one end goes a shear pin that will go into hde wire contact in the spark plug cap. Wrap the free part with tape so it fits the inside of the plastic tube. There should be enough beyond the rubber spark plug cap to secure with a tie wrap. in the other end of the plastic tube insert a length of spark plug wire with an alligator clip soldered on. Adjust the gap to a quarter inch and secure in place with another tie wrap. That will be your test spark plug. . . 😎
March 2, 2018 at 3:57 am #71809
Bad spark plug??? From all my tests it seems they’re fine and the secondary windings are bad in the coils, unless I’m doing something wrong. Does testing have to be done with an analog meter and not a digital one?? Is there another way to test these coils?March 2, 2018 at 5:26 am #71813
measure booth clip to frame ground
should see 4-7kohms if not 4-7Kohms then re-measure from HV coil pin to frame ground if ok….. bad plug wire
if not OK measure HV pin to black wire just in case the mag plate is not grounding to engine block properly
if ok to black wire but not engine frame find out why the mag plate is not grounding properly
you must have 4-7kohms to engine block from the booth clip
measure plug wire end to end should be 0 ohms if you used proper metallic wire (no carbon)
something is strange here… 2 bad coils with same symptoms is very unlikely…. short you meter probes to ensure you read 0 ohms before starting analog or digital are both ok
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