Hiawatha 5 hp

[mr-asa]

It was literally my pleasure. I get very few opportunities to do any sort of actual experiments since I’m in school. It was a lot of fun to do.

The Yamabond easily stood up to the heat as well as the Red RTV, but the Red RTV held together with much more strength than any of the others. Easily 2-2.5x as strong as the others.

[phil-b]

What brand Red RTV?

[mr-asa]

I don’t know offhand, but I have the tube in my "Outboard Parts" or my "Current Project" tub. I will dig it out later today. I think I got it from O’Reilly’s though

[Buccaneer]

Started spraying PB Blaster, WD-39-1/2, etc., into the cylinders of the Hiawatha twin last
summer. Didn’t seem to help much. I hesitantly pumped some grease into the one cylinder
that was above the ports, while taping on the other piston with a wood dowel and hammer,
and the pistons moved about 1/4 ", but they didn’t sound happy. The other piston was
then above the ports, so I pumped grease in that one, and got the pistons back to where
they were originally. Still could not budge the crankshaft with a wrench, but I decided to
try to take the crankcase apart anyway. I have the crankcase and jug separated about
1/4", but it seems really stuck now.
Should I just throw the whole power head in a bucket of solvent and try again next year?
I don’t want to do too much prying on the aluminum surfaces.
Thanks for any suggestions!

Prepare to be boarded!

[frankr]

Sounds like a plan. I have a 3hp that’s been soaking for about two years. Someday I’ll get around to it again, and probably beat it out of there with a big hammer. Besides, I have a new piston now…

[ronboonville]

since I had 3 gale 5 hp that were stuck I used a couple of things. I figure if they’re stuck they are junk. I soaked with the transmission fluid and acetone 2 or 3 weeks. I also had a gap of about 1/4 inch. I drove in tapered screwdrivers, chisels, and anything else I could find. It took a long time but I was able to remove the cylinder. The next one I soaked for awhile also. I used a 3/8 bolt down the spark plug hole and my air hammer going back and forth from one cylinder to the other. after I was able stroke it thru, I used a breaker bar and socket. Then a socket and a drill. I did the coils, points, and carb and it runs good. I also used alot of pb blaster and wd 40 and motor oil. Both motors are running fine. The last one I soaked and used the bolt and a big hammer. It’s kinda freed up. Those piston are real thick, just saying.

[mr-asa]

quote Mr. Asa:

I don’t know offhand, but I have the tube in my “Outboard Parts” or my “Current Project” tub. I will dig it out later today. I think I got it from O’Reilly’s though

I finally dug this out. It’s Permatex Red RTV Gasket Maker.

http://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-81160- … 0002UEN1A/

[mr-asa]

quote Buccaneer:

Should I just throw the whole power head in a bucket of solvent and try again next year?
I don’t want to do too much prying on the aluminum surfaces.
Thanks for any suggestions!

I ended up filling the cylinders with transmission fluid and got them freed up fairly quickly. Maybe two or three months total?
Used a little bit of heat as I had access to the cylinder walls because I took the walls off, as I said I don’t believe that was a huge help, probably helped get the fluid down into the piston rings somewhat.

It sounds like you took the crank case apart? If so, I’d recommend trying to get it back together, I was able to use a breaker bar on the crank to get it to spin and without that I don’t think I would have gotten mine free.

[Buccaneer]

Thanks for the suggestions. I bought a quart of acetone and had four
twenty year old Ford ATF type "F" quarts of fluid, and it covered the
complete power head in a 5 gal bucket. I may add more acetone
after I get to a big box store. I have a brass rod that just fits in the
plug hole that I’ve done some "tapping", but the air hammer method
is intriguing, lol.

Prepare to be boarded!

[Author]

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