Hit a Log this Morning

[drifter]

Thanks Mumbles. I was beginning to question my old eyeballs.
I replaced the shock absorber the day of the strike. I’m going to test run in the tank today. To be honest, although this is the very best running motor of my meager 12 motor collection, I’ve always thought it did not push the boat with the same vigor as my 57 Evinrude 7.5 or even my Johnson 5.5s.
I took my GPS with me last Friday just to check the speed of this boat/motor combination and then do comparisons to my other motors. I hit the log before getting any data.
What are your thoughts on welding the two piece shock absorber? They are darned expensive (but then…so are props and gears). If this one is slipping, as I’m now sure it is, welding seems to be the only fix.
Brass shear pin would be only insurance.
Thanks again,
Drifter

[Mumbles]

If you squeeze them back to the original 6 11/16" they can be brazed or welded. While doing this they should be checked for straightness by installing the shaft and spinning it. For protection, your brass drive pin now becomes a shear pin.

[chris-p]

There are still members out there that would sell you a good one. I only have a few left or I would. I used to have a box, but have passed them all off to members. Perhaps a good machinist could fab up a drop in drive shaft, Im sure there would be a few sales. The absorbers we have will only last so long.

[jeff-register]

Mumbles,
Wasn’t the "Pin" called a drive pin & wasn’t made to shear off? The spring clutch was the newest "no replace" drive pin used? I would in interest of the clutch spring use aluminum or brass material with more give than steel drive pins. Maybe clamp it in a vice & support the end then heat it to give it more torque requirement again?
Maybe Frank has a better reply!

[Author]

Posts