hopelessly stuck rings

[wedgie]

The recent acquired QD18 had some very stuck rings, so I took the mapp torch to them. I only broke one. What are the chances of re using the rings, or did the heating of them ruin them ?

[oltimer]

Wedgie, I have reused them as you would never get them that hot to change the temperment when they were made.

[wedgie]

Thanks Oltimer.

That’s what I was wondering. The rings are still springy, but would still have to check the gap.

This powerhead is a complete loss, so at this point it’s an academic exercise. Practice getting stuff apart without doing more damage. I am getting better at it.

This waterpump screw seems to be stuck on all the neglected motors.

[Steve A W]

Wedgie
Did you ever see Tubs’ video on unsticking rings?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWMUDYfhqW0

Good luck with your motor.

Steve A W

Member of the MOB chapter.
I live in Northwest Indiana

[wedgie]

quote Steve A W:

Wedgie
Did you ever see Tubs’ video on unsticking rings?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWMUDYfhqW0

Good luck with your motor.

Steve A W

Now that you mention it, I have seen that, and must’ve subconsciously remembered and used the technique. The QD rings had closed so tightly that there was no gap to even get them started, so I resorted to heat . Some wiggling with a dental pic and finally 5 out of 6 came apart enough to get in there with a jewelers screwdriver like Tubs’ is using. Once started I had to resist the urge to rush. Paying attention to where the ring springs up, and tapping it there helped to direct the force to where it is stuck. Have to push on the loose end of the ring so that it crowns up a bit, then tap it there.

[oltimer]

Wedgie, on the stuck/seized water pump screw, I take out my torch and pre heat the whole upper unit by going around it at least 3-4 times. While doing this; use Liquid Wrench from C Tire and slowly pour it at the screw base thread. Now take the torch and apply more heat to the casing were the screw is. It is going to smoke like "H", but when you let it sit over night it will do the trick. In the morning when you go to try and remove the screw; apply heat again to the area of the casing were the screw is located while using your wrench to free it.

[wedgie]

The first two came out like butter 😀 , the third one was probably corroded all the way through already. I did end up heating it , and turned it out using a pair of nuts locked against each other, rather than try to use vise grips and thrashing the stub 😳 . I should have done a preheat like you say Oltimer, but was tricked by how easy the first two screws came out 🙄 .

So now I’ve hijscked my own thread, here’s a shot of the gearcase near the vent hole. I wonder if it’s cracked there or just casting flash spiderwebbing around the lettering.

Here’s a bulge on the lower half of the gearcase. Kinda hard to see.

Dang, I had hopes for this gearcase 🙁 Maybe a tig welder can salvage it. 😉

[oltimer]

Your 1st pic looks like casting flash Wedgie. On the second pic, I am trying to see the problem from the angle you take it. In my 40 years around the machine shop, I have learned that with aluminum casings with bearing fits; including cast steel casings with bearing fits; they all have to be preheated and kept warm during the welding process to stop warpage. I guy just showed me a Merc 20 bottom end done and now his bearings do not line up. A qualified welder would normally know this. And as you know Merc bottom end casings are much thinner than OMC’s

[frankr]

I also think it is casting flash. I don’t see the bulge in second picture, but I sort of believe I know what you are speaking of. If so, not to worry. You will know more when you get it apart.

[wedgie]

Yeah, very bad picture , It’s hard to see when you’re holding it in your hands even.but it is bulged out , hopefully not broken through. I will pull it apart tomorrow. Thanks

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