Home › Forum › Ask A Member › How Important is OMC Ignition Timing?
- This topic has 87 replies, 22 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 6 months ago by RICHARD A. WHITE.
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May 5, 2015 at 11:48 pm #15408
So this process should be able to work on nearly all 2 cylinder opposed motors? With that being said, one need to find where one set of points opens, using a Ohm meter, then ensure the other set opens exactly 180 degrees from that.
Am I correct? I have some Mercs, that need this done as I have always used feelers gages to accomplish this, but it is close is not always good enough.
Thanks
Richard
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comMay 6, 2015 at 5:33 am #15422quote Tom Manley:OK, this covers how to determine when the points openPardon this, but I wasn’t able to send you a PM.
Are you the same Manley that I know from the Minneapolis bike scene, in the 1990s?
May 6, 2015 at 7:36 am #15424quote Richard A. White:So this process should be able to work on nearly all 2 cylinder opposed motors? With that being said, one need to find where one set of points opens, using a Ohm meter, then ensure the other set opens exactly 180 degrees from that.Am I correct? I have some Mercs, that need this done as I have always used feelers gages to accomplish this, but it is close is not always good enough.
Absolutely. Establishing that correct fire-point for the ‘first’ cylinder is important.. but setting the two fire points exactly 180′ off is even more important, if the motor is to run smoothly.
In other words, the relative (cylinder vs. cylinder) timing relationship is probably more critical to running quality than precise absolute (cylinder vs. crank position) timing.
May 6, 2015 at 7:43 am #15425And since we’re on the topic.. I’m still waiting to hear from one of the experts, where an OMC motor should +precisely+ time, with respect to crank position.
In this case, it’s specific to the Johnson TD20 – where (in terms of degrees, mm or inches) should the spark occur?
May 6, 2015 at 10:03 am #15427I am recalling the motor I am working on now states the proper "timing" is .265 BTDC. This is on a 1954 Mercury Mark 20H . That being said, if I set the points to open at that point and set the second cylinder 180 out from that this beast should be dare I say perfect?
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comMay 6, 2015 at 10:06 am #15428And now since I do not have a degree wheel, or the proper timing template called out for in the manuals, I will find the diameter of the mag, plot that out in CAD, with 2 marks 180 degrees apart, fabricate a pointer and do this properly, then make one for OMC motors too. Gosh this is fun, LOL
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classicomctools@gmail.comMay 6, 2015 at 12:48 pm #15435- This reply was modified 6 years ago by The Boat House.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by The Boat House.
May 7, 2015 at 3:02 am #15465quote Tubs:When a timing specifications is given it is made at
a fix point.Correct, and it’s normally quoted in degrees before (or after) TDC.
quote :The components of the ignition will now
make adjustments so the timing is correct as to load
and RPM.That’s an oversimplification. What happens, is that timing changes as the speed control is moved up & down the range. The spark advance increases as the control is moved up through the range.
quote :Now in the motor your discussing the
timing is controlled by you.Ok, sure – we understand one another..
quote :There is no timing
specifications because the mag plate isn’t fixed and is
constantly moving.That’s a mis-statement. There most certainly +is+ a timing spec – and again, it’s normally quoted in degrees BTDC. On any motor, there will be timing specs for idle and/or full speed operation. Even in the case of manually variable timing as on this old Johnson, there are still lower and upper limits for ignition timing.
quote :The timing would need to be only
matched to the carburetor.Ideally, timing is linked to RPM and load, which is why some engines have features like centrifugal and vacuum auto-advance mechanisms – but you’re correct that on this Johnson, the timing is directly tied to the position of the main carb butterfly. That’s a reasonable compromise, as the engineers figure that at a given throttle position, the engine speed will be X and as such, the timing should be Y. This is very reasonable on an OBM as the load is very predictable – all water acts about the same, driven by the same prop at a particular RPM.
The advance will at first be too high when the throttle is first moved from idle to full, but everything falls into place once the engine RPM catches up, which is (or ought to be!) shortly after the adjustment.
Having said all of this, there are still two hard datum to be known – the correct advance at low / zero throttle, and the same at full throttle. If the factory doesn’t quote it, that’s too bad – but it still can be deduced and measured using the correct timing tools.
May 7, 2015 at 12:38 pm #15479.
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by The Boat House.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by The Boat House.
May 7, 2015 at 9:18 pm #15490So, I made me a tool today, Used ohm meter set to audible to stop make the effing racket just as points break.
Reading the manual. it states that you set the gap approximately 1/4 inch past the initial opening. This is for the Phelon ignition. Does that sound right?Thanks
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