Canada Member - 2 Years
Topics: 395May 18, 2015 at 3:51 pm #16352quote Richard A. White:
I use a set of leads with alligator clips on them to set up the timing. One lead is clipped to ground while the other one is clipped to the small screw holding the wires onto the points. The reading in the first pic is with the points closed and the test circuit going thru the points to ground. The reading in the second pic is with the points just opening and the circuit being thru the primary winding of the coil to ground hence the higher reading. Doing it this way is very simple and there is no chance of altering the timing while putting pressure on the screw while tightening it up.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 43May 18, 2015 at 5:03 pm #16358
The instructions with the timing fixture plainly state that some ohm meters can tell the difference between about an ohm and zero ohms, while other meters cannot tell the difference. At least I thought that was made clear. I’ll have to review what they say.
Ignorance is simply a lack of education. Ignorance can be cured. There is no cure for Stupid.May 18, 2015 at 6:18 pm #16361quote wbeaton:
Totally different situation. Compare the wiring diagram for one of these OMC magnetos to that of your aircraft magneto, and you’ll quickly realize the difference. Also, look at the pics in Mumbles’ post, just above mine – the difference between open & closed points is only 0.7 ohms!
Your typical continuity tester will regard anything below a few ohms as a closed-circuit. One example, the continuity ‘beep’ on one of my meters has a 100 ohm threshold, IIRC. That would never work for one of these OMC mags.. it would just beep continuously. See the issue?
Canada Member - 1 Year
Topics: 64May 18, 2015 at 6:55 pm #16367
I’m not interested in arguing with you, legendre. My video clearly shows a buzz box setting the points without issue, which you state is impossible. That’s all I’ve got to say on this subject.
Upper Canada Chapter
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 16May 18, 2015 at 9:30 pm #16377
My experience is similar to what Mumbles is seeing.
Measured with all of the ignition wiring intact I’m getting .6 ohm with the points closed and 1.4 ohm with them open. The .6 is likely wiring resistance in the meter leads.
There is a very clear change in readings when the points open.
I’m using a fairly inexpensive Radio Shack digital VOM. (volt, ohm, milliamp)May 18, 2015 at 10:17 pm #16379quote legendre:
Just a thought, and don’t mean to be rude, but some of the guys on here have a lot of experience with this vintage of motor, and trouble shooting them. They have been doing this for a very long time, and it is what they know. I have learned, even when Im totally certain that Im right, Im usually wrong, when an experienced veteran of this hobby like Frank states differently to my belief at that time. 999 times out of a thousand times anyways! I think Frank was wrong once? Maybe not. 😉
Wayne has taught me a lot about this hobby as well, and sold me my first vintage motor.
You can most definitely set the ignition with Franks timing fixture, and a buzz box or light. I have done it hundreds of times as well, all with great success.
These guys are here to help us non mechanics learn!
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 120May 19, 2015 at 2:26 pm #16439
Always learning here.
Had a light bulb moment following this thread.
Started following this board in the late 90’s.
I was in my 50’s and had always thought that
the plugs fired when the points closed. One of
the first things I learned was that the spark
actually occurs when they open. From the RBM
guys I learned that there is a ideal time for the
points to open to get the best spark.
Frank recently posted. " The purpose of using the
timing fixture is it is more accurate, that is the points
will open at exactly the right moment" and" once
you set the points with the timing fixture, if you
then check them (the points) with a feeler gauge, they
may or may not be exactly .020". I think got it.
Gaping the points is a timing adjustment. The
factory gives you a setting that will cause the points
to open "at exactly the right moment". If the gap is to
small the points will open too soon. Too large and they
open late. You still have spark but not the best spark.
As there can be some variation from one set of points
to another even though they are set to the correct gap
they can be off slightly from that "exactly the right
moment". The purpose of Franks timing tool is not
to get the plugs firing 180 degrees from each other
although that is the result. Its to get them to fire
"at exactly the right moment". From following an
RBM discussion years ago I learned that the best
spark occurs at the exact point that the polarity changes
as the magnet passes over the coil. So – after giving this
some thought what I have finely gotten out of this is
whether using a feeler gauge or a timing tool what your
attempting to do is to have the points open "at exactly
the right moment" where the polarity changes as the
magnet passes over the coil to get the strongest spark.
The result is they idle and run better. Franks timing tool
insures you have accomplished this. It may not always
be the case when gaping the points.
May 24, 2015 at 12:59 am #16747quote wbeaton:
Ok now – there are buzz boxes, and there are buzz boxes. Obviously, the one used in your video must be unlike 90% of all other basic, continuity-type buzzers or lamps. May I ask – does it have an adjustable sensitivity / threshold control? This wasn’t mentioned in the video.
It would be helpful if you posted the make & model of the buzz-box you’re using, as anyone trying to duplicate your work with a typical buzzer or continuity light would drive themselves nuts..
Again, your average work-a-day continuity tester isn’t capable of sensing the small (< 1 ohm) shift in resistance when the points break open – and this is what we are trying to get across to our fellow members – yes?May 24, 2015 at 1:07 am #16750
DO a search for buzz box on ebay for pictures. They are not a continuity light, they are designed to sense the resistance shift when the points break.
I have one like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300694897331?_t … EBIDX%3AIT
I like Waynes though, as it has an audible alarm along with the light.
If you have a cheapo continuity tester, multi meter, etc…, then yes, the points leads need to be taken off. If you have the proper tool, they don’t.
I did it for a while with a simple analog meter, but I always needed to remove the leads. I found at times, when re connecting them, the force of the screwdriver would throw them off a touch again. That is why, the timing fixture, along with buzz box, is ideal.May 24, 2015 at 1:46 am #16757quote Chris_P:
Then we’re all in violent agreement.
This was my point from the get-go.. if you are using a +common+ continuity light or continuity ‘beeper’ function on a meter, or even many common bzz-boxes, you won’t get the indication that’s required.
If you use the correct instrument – like a DVM / VOM with sufficient sensitivity, or one of these highly sensitive buzz-boxes, then you are fine.
It seemed to me that this particular distinction was what was tripping up several members, and as such, it’s what I tried to correct.May 24, 2015 at 1:49 am #16759quote Chris_P:
Ok yes, these are all purpose-built buzz-boxes for reading magneto points.
I never once stated that such a bespoke instrument could not be used for the intended purpose.. only that the most commonly-available, inexpensive devices were for the most part, totally unsuitable.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 31May 24, 2015 at 2:07 am #16760
When you purchase Frank’s Timing Fixture, it comes with instructions on using a mutimeter. The instructions clearly state that if the multimeter/ohmmeter does not read less than 1 OHM that the leads must be disconnected.
Whether it’s an analog, digital, or buzzbox, aren’t we talking about the capability of the instrument to read less than 1 OHM?
My inexpensive analog meter was somehow able to get the timing very close on a Johnson CD-12. In fact, the timing was much closer than just setting the points to 0.020" with a feeler gauge. I was able to observe the before and after with a timing light.
Yes, I had to disconnect the leads, and I would prefer to just hook up a higher quality meter to the screw at the connection post without having to disconnect the leads, but the lesser quality instrument did get the job done.
Now, I have a birthday coming in a couple of weeks so…May 24, 2015 at 2:54 am #16762quote aquasonic:
The capability to read differentials of less than one ohm.. that is, it’s primarily a matter of precision, rather than accuracy.
But yes, that’s the core of the issue.
Edit: If you want a cheap but very handy and capable meter, as an example check eBay for a Radio Shack mdl. 2200811 or 22-811. Should be less than $20 used, in very nice shape. It will read those low-ohm differentials plus all kinds of other useful functions like capacitance and frequency. Heck, check item #131500421636 for one, $26.00 shipped, brand new in the box.May 24, 2015 at 3:17 am #16768
In a flywheel magneto system (as in OBMs) there are two ignition events which must be correctly timed. Event #1, is the peak flux through the ignition coil, which is the point where the spark is the strongest. Event #2 is the correct point where the plugs must fire the cylinder(s). If you’ve ever set timing on a car, truck engine, you are setting event #2 – that’s "the timing" we all know of.
Think of #1 as an acceptable range and #2 as a very specific instant within that range. Event #1’s range cannot be adjusted, it’s a function of the relationship between the rotor magnet(s) and the ignition coil(s) – and that’s fixed at the factory by the placement of coils, magnets and flywheel keyways.
Event #2 can be adjusted by varying the points gap – so it’s field-adjustable. We have to trust the factory engineers that the correct point for event #2 (which we will set by varying gap) will fall within the desired range of event #1.. and in any properly executed design, that’s just how it works out!
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