How Important is OMC Ignition Timing?

[chris-p]

quote legendre:

quote wbeaton:

quote legendre:

This is the issue, and it’s why you can’t use a light or buzz-box – neither can really tell the difference between 0 and 1 ohms….

If you’re using a continuity light or buzz-box, there’s no discernible difference between 0 and 1 (zero and one) ohms – either state will illuminate the lamp or buzz the box.

Nonsense. Buzz boxes are used to set airplane magnetos so you can be assured it’ll work just fine on an outboard. The buzz box won’t make any noise until the moment the points open.

Totally different situation. Compare the wiring diagram for one of these OMC magnetos to that of your aircraft magneto, and you’ll quickly realize the difference. Also, look at the pics in Mumbles’ post, just above mine – the difference between open & closed points is only 0.7 ohms!

Your typical continuity tester will regard anything below a few ohms as a closed-circuit. One example, the continuity ‘beep’ on one of my meters has a 100 ohm threshold, IIRC. That would never work for one of these OMC mags.. it would just beep continuously. See the issue?

Legendre,

Just a thought, and don’t mean to be rude, but some of the guys on here have a lot of experience with this vintage of motor, and trouble shooting them. They have been doing this for a very long time, and it is what they know. I have learned, even when Im totally certain that Im right, Im usually wrong, when an experienced veteran of this hobby like Frank states differently to my belief at that time. 999 times out of a thousand times anyways! I think Frank was wrong once? Maybe not. 😉

Wayne has taught me a lot about this hobby as well, and sold me my first vintage motor.

You can most definitely set the ignition with Franks timing fixture, and a buzz box or light. I have done it hundreds of times as well, all with great success.

These guys are here to help us non mechanics learn!

[The Boat House]

• This reply was modified 6 years ago by The Boat House.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by The Boat House.

[legendre]

quote wbeaton:

I’m not interested in arguing with you, legendre. My video clearly shows a buzz box setting the points without issue, which you state is impossible. That’s all I’ve got to say on this subject.

Ok now – there are buzz boxes, and there are buzz boxes. Obviously, the one used in your video must be unlike 90% of all other basic, continuity-type buzzers or lamps. May I ask – does it have an adjustable sensitivity / threshold control? This wasn’t mentioned in the video.

It would be helpful if you posted the make & model of the buzz-box you’re using, as anyone trying to duplicate your work with a typical buzzer or continuity light would drive themselves nuts..

Again, your average work-a-day continuity tester isn’t capable of sensing the small (< 1 ohm) shift in resistance when the points break open – and this is what we are trying to get across to our fellow members – yes?

[chris-p]

DO a search for buzz box on ebay for pictures. They are not a continuity light, they are designed to sense the resistance shift when the points break.

I have one like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300694897331?_t … EBIDX%3AIT

I like Waynes though, as it has an audible alarm along with the light.

If you have a cheapo continuity tester, multi meter, etc…, then yes, the points leads need to be taken off. If you have the proper tool, they don’t.

I did it for a while with a simple analog meter, but I always needed to remove the leads. I found at times, when re connecting them, the force of the screwdriver would throw them off a touch again. That is why, the timing fixture, along with buzz box, is ideal.

[chris-p]

Here are some others

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Vertex-magn … b2&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Buzz-Box … e1&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magneto-Timer-B … 02&vxp=mtr

[legendre]

quote Chris_P:

If you have a cheapo continuity tester, multi meter, etc…, then yes, the points leads need to be taken off. If you have the proper tool, they don’t.

Then we’re all in violent agreement.

This was my point from the get-go.. if you are using a +common+ continuity light or continuity ‘beeper’ function on a meter, or even many common bzz-boxes, you won’t get the indication that’s required.

If you use the correct instrument – like a DVM / VOM with sufficient sensitivity, or one of these highly sensitive buzz-boxes, then you are fine.

It seemed to me that this particular distinction was what was tripping up several members, and as such, it’s what I tried to correct.

[legendre]

quote Chris_P:

Here are some others

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Vertex-magn … b2&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timing-Buzz-Box … e1&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magneto-Timer-B … 02&vxp=mtr

Ok yes, these are all purpose-built buzz-boxes for reading magneto points.

I never once stated that such a bespoke instrument could not be used for the intended purpose.. only that the most commonly-available, inexpensive devices were for the most part, totally unsuitable.

[aquasonic]

When you purchase Frank’s Timing Fixture, it comes with instructions on using a mutimeter. The instructions clearly state that if the multimeter/ohmmeter does not read less than 1 OHM that the leads must be disconnected.

Whether it’s an analog, digital, or buzzbox, aren’t we talking about the capability of the instrument to read less than 1 OHM?

My inexpensive analog meter was somehow able to get the timing very close on a Johnson CD-12. In fact, the timing was much closer than just setting the points to 0.020" with a feeler gauge. I was able to observe the before and after with a timing light.

Yes, I had to disconnect the leads, and I would prefer to just hook up a higher quality meter to the screw at the connection post without having to disconnect the leads, but the lesser quality instrument did get the job done.

Now, I have a birthday coming in a couple of weeks so…

[legendre]

quote aquasonic:

Whether it’s an analog, digital, or buzzbox, aren’t we talking about the capability of the instrument to read less than 1 OHM?

The capability to read differentials of less than one ohm.. that is, it’s primarily a matter of precision, rather than accuracy.

But yes, that’s the core of the issue.

Edit: If you want a cheap but very handy and capable meter, as an example check eBay for a Radio Shack mdl. 2200811 or 22-811. Should be less than $20 used, in very nice shape. It will read those low-ohm differentials plus all kinds of other useful functions like capacitance and frequency. Heck, check item #131500421636 for one, $26.00 shipped, brand new in the box.

[legendre]

@Tubs

In a flywheel magneto system (as in OBMs) there are two ignition events which must be correctly timed. Event #1, is the peak flux through the ignition coil, which is the point where the spark is the strongest. Event #2 is the correct point where the plugs must fire the cylinder(s). If you’ve ever set timing on a car, truck engine, you are setting event #2 – that’s "the timing" we all know of.

Think of #1 as an acceptable range and #2 as a very specific instant within that range. Event #1’s range cannot be adjusted, it’s a function of the relationship between the rotor magnet(s) and the ignition coil(s) – and that’s fixed at the factory by the placement of coils, magnets and flywheel keyways.

Event #2 can be adjusted by varying the points gap – so it’s field-adjustable. We have to trust the factory engineers that the correct point for event #2 (which we will set by varying gap) will fall within the desired range of event #1.. and in any properly executed design, that’s just how it works out!

[Author]

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