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  • #11244
    The Boat House
    Participant

      Got this this weekend a Quincy. I wasn’t
      really looking for one but because of
      some of the discussion about them on the
      boards I picked it up.
      I don’t know –
      if it works –
      how to tell if it works –
      what to do if it doesn’t work –
      what’s missing-
      or if something is missing can you get it.
      I have gotten the impression that these
      have a strong demand and can have
      some value but looking around their is
      a lot about the 98. Searching the model 88
      and there is nothing. Maybe there isn’t
      any demand for this one. I wanted to be
      fair with the guy so I told him I thought
      it was worth more than he was asking.
      We settled on price. He was happy and
      time will tell if it was a good deal or
      not and if I will get some enjoyment
      out of getting it to work and using it or
      if it just turns into a big PITA.

      #83057
      twostroke
      Participant

        I wouldn’t be without mine…. Don’t hold on to the spark plug wire when testing coils. Don’t ask how I know that.

        Jim

        I say "pardon me" a lot. I had a 20H, then raced open mod sleds.

        #83058
        Tom
        Participant

          US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

          Tubs,

          I think I remember most of this…

          Put the device on a rubber pad NOT a metal table.

          You’ll need a battery to do coil tests. A 7.2 volt drill battery will do fine, terminals are inside the unit. Remove two screws on the top and it folds open.

          Hook one test lead wire up to the isolated point, the other to the mag plate. Put a piece of paper between the points. Attach thick wire to the plug lead. Turn the switch to coil power test, and you should hear the motor run. Turn up the Lo-Hi dial until you see spark in the window, and read the power required to generate spark. That number is compared to a value on a list to tell you whether the coil is within factory spec.

          If you have the extra lead, plug it into the PROD TEST hole. With the coil active, probe along the wire and around the area where the wires come out of the coil. If there’s HV leakage, you should see it.

          Setting 2 is for low resistance measurement… like whether points closed or really closed. Useful to determine whether points are clean. Zero the meter with the wires NOT connected. Don’t leave the switch in this position if you don’t have to. Same goes for Setting 1.

          Setting 3 is general resistance. Connect test wires and zero the meter, you have an ohmmeter.

          Now plug in the unit…

          Setting 4 is to measure condenser leakage. Hook up wires to condenser (not installed in mag plate) and press the red button to get a reading.

          Setting 5 is to measure condenser capacity. Hook up wires as #4 and press the red button to get a reading.

          Tom

          #83065
          The Boat House
          Participant

            Thank you Tom for responding.
            I don’t have anything that takes a 7.5 volt battery
            but I have found them on line. I will order one.
            I’m thinking about this one. Your thoughts?
            Can test 4 or 5 be done without the battery
            to see if that function works?

            #83068
            dave-bernard
            Participant

              US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

              the difference between the 88 and the 98 is the 88 has a set of points instead of a vibrator to check the coils get the 98 info and you will be fine. the 88 is louder than the 98 because of the points setup.

              #83069
              cajuncook1
              Participant


                Tubs, if you don’t have a manual for the analyzer, I will provide you with a digital manual for the
                Merc-o-tronic 88

                Cheers,

                Cajun

                #83070
                RICHARD A. WHITE
                Participant

                  Lifetime Member

                  Don’t waste time with a battery, buy a 7.5 volt DC power supply, think computer power supply and wire it in appropriately…normal computer power cord..

                  You will probably never need to take it to a motor on the water, so dedicated power supply is the cats meow.

                  Want the number of what I use? GS40A07-P1J

                  Here is one on Ebay, free shipping:

                  https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-X-GS40A07-P1 … SwyXNZ8HdO

                  My Model 88 has an on/off switch installed, only slight differences in the units, but the Model 98 does do more… I use the Model 98 instructions…But now have the actual 88, thanks Cajun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

                  http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                  classicomctools@gmail.com

                  #83079
                  The Boat House
                  Participant

                    Thanks Cajun for the manual
                    and Richard for the tip on the power supply.

                    #83101
                    The Boat House
                    Participant

                      • This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.
                      • This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by The Boat House.
                      #83102
                      RICHARD A. WHITE
                      Participant

                        Lifetime Member

                        You will also need the connector that the power supply plugs into, they can be had on Amazon, 10 or so in a pack.. Do not remember the details.. gave my spares to Rick Eichrodt.

                        That connector installs in the unit, so you can plug the power supply into.

                        Glad to have finally helped someone…lol

                        http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                        classicomctools@gmail.com

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