I don’t know

[Tom]

Tubs,

It looks like you should be ready to use the 88 pretty soon. Good luck with it, you’ll find quickly that it’s a very useful tool. Here are a few things you’ll be able to do that you couldn’t without one or a similar unit.

• Check condensers at high voltage. Testing them with an ohmmeter is useful, but not as valid as a high voltage leak test.

• Checking to see when point open without disconnecting the condenser. For timing of alternate twins, you can use the low ohm reading to see when the points open.

• Check for shorts where the primary wires come out of the coil. That’s what that third probe is for. If it didn’t come with the unit, see about finding or making one. No more spark testing in the dark to see if the spark is jumping where it shouldn’t go, or the primary is shorting out to the lamination.

T

[dave-bernard]

IF the coil test does not work and the motor for the coils runs clean the points.

[The Boat House]

t some point.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by The Boat House.

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

Here ya go, it is important to note these are center positive……just as the power supply:
You will only need the one end but this is the proper size. 5.5 mm outside X 2.1 mm inside, center positive.
This is not the one I used but these would be better, should have looked harder

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pair-12V-5-5x … SwpIdW8CCW

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[The Boat House]

• This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by The Boat House.

[fleetwin]

I had a rechargeable battery pack made for mine, but am thinking a 7.5 volt power supply would be the best bet. I think you will enjoy having this tool, yours looks to be in nice condition….And, if it doesn’t work, the guys here have the knowledge to fix it up easily…
These testers are worth every penny, great for coil output and leakage tests….Takes the guess work out of condenser inspections as well…
Tom Manley helped educate me on using mine properly….

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

I believe everyone should convert to the power supply, much cleaner power and NEVER worry about forgetting to charge the battery.

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[amuller]

quote Richard A. White:

I believe everyone should convert to the power supply, much cleaner power and NEVER worry about forgetting to charge the battery.

Seems to me that if you use a plug-in power supply to replace a battery you need to think about isolation. Some may be safe and some not. Do these testers have a line connected chassis?

amuller, here are the specs, I am not an electrician by any stretch of the matter: Tell me what you think…

Thanks

Richard

Type of power supply unit: switched-mode
Output voltage: 7.5V DC
Maximum output current: 5.34A
Kind of output connector: 5,5/2,1
Power: 40W
Supply voltage: 90…264V AC
Supply voltage: 127…370V DC
Body dimensions: 125 x 50 x 31.5mm
Kind of case: desktop
Kind of power supply: volatage source
Operating temperature: -30…60°C
Kit contents: without power cable
Protection: anti-overload
Protection: anti-overvoltage
Protection: short circuit protection
Length of output cable: 1m
Conform to the norm: Energy efficiency Level V
Connector variant: straight
Kind of input connector: IEC C14
Efficiency: 85.5%
Polarisation: positive inner pin
Manufacturer: MEAN WELL

[Author]

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