Identifying a ’80’s or newer Johnson 15HP

[PugetSoundBoater]

A friend brought this over for me to check out to see if it is worth saving. The motor id sticker on the side of the transom lamp is all scratched up ,cant read it.All i got is the serial # on the welch plug which is G2638688, and these photos.It is a long shaft.
Thank You.

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"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[RICK EICHRODT]

1992 was the last year for the spool type rewind starter. In 1993 they went to the over the flywheel recoil and a larger hood. This looks like a commercial OMC motot with the style of decals on it. Does this motor have the front shift handle or the older style side shifter lever?

[rmhxruss]

About 1987 or 1988.

[PugetSoundBoater]

Shift handle is in the normal location on the side. The lower unit is missing. It has the plastic fuel filter you can change the element in. The kill switch is on the control panel, not on the tiller , which seems odd , considering it has the cable throttle. It had a snap in plug where the lanyard type kill switch would be like on my ’89 9.9. I will post another photo of the tiller later tonight.
Thanks, Jim PSB

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[PugetSoundBoater]

Here are some more photos of the tiller and powerhead. The photo with the writing pen points to a block off plate where the newer cable tillers had the lanyard kill switch. Another photo shows the end of the tiller grip where normally there would be the kill switch and lanyard would be, and has a plastic plug filling the end of the idle adjustment knob.
Yet another photo shows the control panel where the kill switch is, as it is in the pre tiller with throttle cable would have been.
Last photo shows the serviceable fuel filter .
This motor is missing the Lower unit, but does have the 5" extention.
I spoke with a club member today who thinks this may be a commercial 1988 or ’89 14hp due to the fuel filter and tiller differences.I have yet to look on Marine Engine at diagrams.

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"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[fleetwin]

OK, well that is a commercial model, at least the cowl is anyway…The commercial models may not have required the safety stop lanyard feature, so the conventional stop switch was used (cheaper and more reliable).
I’m guessing that is a UFI ignition model (powerpack under flywheel), so I’m thinking it is an 89-92 model.

[outbdnut2]

My 1989 has the kill switch on the end of the tiller. I have two 1991s that have the kill switch half way up the tiller where your green pen is pointing to. My 1989 does not have that detail on the tiller, so I’m, guessing it’s newer than 1989.

Neither, my 1989 s or 1991s have that kind of fuel filter, so maybe that came in 1992, or was only used on the commercial models. My ’89 and ’91s only have the screen in the fuel pump for filtering.

I like the graphics on the shroud of your motor – much different then my 1989 or 1991, but that may be because it’s commercial.

BTW: The kill switch on the end of the tiller, in my opinion, was not one of OMCs better ideas. When I’m trolling with it, every so often I bump the switch and shut it off.
Dave

[PugetSoundBoater]

Dave -i know for sure that the kill switch on the end of the tiller is expensive and kinda hard to change. I have bumped my kill switch also and killed the motor. I had a split second of panic until i realized i bumped the switch. Maybe that’s why they moved it to the later position? Thanks for all of your comments.
Jim PSB

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[outbdnut2]

quote PugetSoundBoater:

Dave -i know for sure that the kill switch on the end of the tiller is expensive and kinda hard to change.
Jim PSB

The kill switch half way up the tiller is also expensive! I had one go bad and the cheapest I could find one was $98.00. It does include wires with connectors on the ends, but not worth that! I bought a generic "Seasense" kill switch with lanyard for $10 and mounted it in a couple big washers where the kill switch is located on your motor. It didn’t fit where the old switch was.
Dave

[fleetwin]

I would certainly keep the current kill switch and its location, whether or not it came that way from the factory….
Having the kill switch in the cowl like that is the simplest, cheapest, and most reliable set up….

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