Ign. update. engine weight, etc.

[jdemaris]

I’ve got a few, not-very-closely related questions.

#1 – I’ve got a 1964 Glastron GT-140 V-hull boat with a max 60 horse rating on the ID tag. I’m wondering about the max weight rating on the transom more then the HP rating. I’ve got a Fisher-PIerce 55 HP 4-stroke and am assuming it’s way too heavy – but do not know for sure. It easily weighs 100 lbs. more then most 50 horse 2-strokes I know of.

#2 – In the same scope of reasoning – I bought a kicker-motor bracket that says it’s good for up to a 25 horse two-stroke and 110 lbs and NOT for four-strokes. What’s the deal? I understand four-strokes are by nature heavier, but is there some reason why I cannot use a 5 horse, 4-stroke Briggs & Stratton that weighs around 56 lbs.?

#3 – Are there any generic breakerless ignition kits for older single-cylinder outboards that are worth using? I worked as a mechanic for years (small engine, auto and diesel. NOT marine). I saw many small breakerless kits come and go and at least the ones I became aware of – were kind of useless. That was 30 years ago. Can’t say I’ve kept up with such things except for Petronix kits for some multi-cylinder engines with distributors.

[frankr]

Seems like the weight issue can get confusing. Maybe you are really asking about the power to weight issue?? But just some things to think about:

As near as I can figure out, the 55 FP Bearcat weighed 239 pounds
A 1967 Evinrude V-60 weighed 228 pounds.
A 1970 Evinrude 3 cylinder looper 60hp weighed 207 pounds.
A 1976 Evinrude 55hp twin cylinder looper weighed 187 pounds
A 1976 Evinrude V-135hp weighed 271 pounds

[debe]

For ignition points replacement the Atom modules are the best if you can still find them.

[amuller]

Opinion: With an old glass boat, the transom should be assumed to be waterlogged and rotten until proven otherwise with test holes and so on.

Is the setup long-shaft or short-shaft? I would wonder about a safe amount of static freeboard at the transom.

Are you sure it is a 1964 GT140? I thought the GTs came out later than that.

On #2 I would not worry about it.

[jdemaris]

On second thought – you are correct. I was going by memory and never knew for sure what year the boat is. I think it is a V142 Skiflite, ser. # 409353, NOT a GT140 (sorry about that). I just pulled it out of three-year storage and my memory was a little foggy on the issue. A boat dealer had it in for repair when the owner died and somehow he got it. He kept the motor off of it and was going to throw the boat out (no papers). So – I got it for free. I liked the way it looked and also liked the fact the transom and floor was solid. Going by the serial #, I figured it was a 1969. The State of New York put the year of 1964 on it and I did not feel like arguing the point with nastyDMV people. I just registered it here in northern Michigan and they will call it any year I want them to. Also note the spec plate on the transom says 50 horse max, not 60 horse max (seems 60 HP is for the GT140). I don’t know a "short shaft" from a "long shaft." I’ve got around 20 old outboards and all look similar to me. I know this. I put a 1986 Yamaha 25 horse on this boat, model, 25LJ. Sitting on the transom as low as it would go and it was 1" too low. So I raised it with a 1" block of wood.

[beerman57]

The boat has a dashboard with steering wheel right, not an open tiller operated type boat? If the transom is solid and it is a dash/steering wheel type boat, I’m sure it would hold a 3 cylinder, 50-70hp motor. Plus they would mount with bolts through the transom, and you could raise the motor to get it to the right height.

[jdemaris]

Yes, has a dash and steering wheel. And yes – I could of just bolted the motor on anywhere I wanted without the block of wood. I don’t even remember why I stuck it there. It was 5 years ago when I did it and was living in NY. Shortly after – I got in a rant about NY and after being there for 40 years – decided to get things ready to move to Michigan. Lots of stuff and it took near 5 years to move it all and sell my place in NY. So even though I stuck that Yamaha on the Glaston 5 years ago – I never got to put it in the water and try it until last week. I stuck it in the river where it joins Lake Huron to test it out. First run was a near disaster. Water pump was not working at all, engine got real hot and started quitting. Note besides the boat – the engine was also new to me. I bought it used in NY without ever trying it. I thought I had a "back-up" in my tool box. To my surprise – my OEM "chrome water pump kit" from Yamaha does NOT come with an impeller. I finally tracked down one at a dealer, stuck it in, and it now runs fine. I also now know that the Yamaha pees out water like most other outboards and when it does not – there are problems. I have the motor with the fin at the near bottom 1" above the keel of the boat and it seems OK. It does seem to cavitate a little at high RPMs though. I don’t want to take it back out into the main lake (Lake Huron) until I have a kicker motor installed. Lake can rough real fast and I want to be sure of an alternative way of getting to shore (other then oars).
I’ve got a Montgomery Ward twin from the 40s ( I think). Plus a 1.7 horse Neptune 500. Plus a 1936 Elto that I doubt is any more powerful then the Neptune. Problem is – at the moment – none run. 5 years ago they all did and now none have spark. Thus the question about a breakerless conversion. I’m sick of yanking flywheels and filing points. The only small outboard I have right now that runs (breakerless) is my 5 horse Briggs and Stratton air-cooled. Weighs 56 lbs. and might be kind of big to stick on a kicker-plate for this little 14′ Glaston.

On a side-note – I was kind of hoping to use the 1936 Elto. My father-in-law’s father bought it new and it’s been in storage for 40 years. I took a quick look at it and cannot even figure if it has a carburetor. Pretty much all is hidden and I’ve yet to find a PDF anywhere for this year Elto. I see nothing like a choke nor is there any "on-off" switch. There IS a spring-loaded button that maybe is some sort of tickler for starting? Like I said, all is shielded in tin so I can’t see much of what is inside and hidden. I’d like to find some instructions somewhere on the proper starting procedure.

[beerman57]

Isn’t it way underpowered with a 25hp?

[jdemaris]

Underpowered? Probably – for many people. Not for me. I no longer have any urge to go fast. Not pulling any skiers either. I want something I can troll around with and not use lots of fuel. When I left NY, I left behind (could not give it way) a 17 foot Glastron with a 105 horse Chrysler. Ran perfect and all wood in the boat (transom, floor, and ribs underneath) were new. But – if I ran it fast – as far as I could tell – it used around a gallon per mile. I might be off a bit, but it used a lot.

[beerman57]

And people give us Floridians grief!!! How stupid do you have to be to not want a free boat with new stringers, floor and transom with a good running motor? I don’t see any way possible to burn a gallon per mile with that motor, ever check for fuel leaks? Sounds to me like you want a 4 stroke motor.

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