ignition timing

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  • wrenchero

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 157
    Topics: 59
    #196900

    hello all, i am working on a 1966 evinrude 3hp.i am replacing coils,points,etc.. is it necessary to set ignition timing.i recently purchased a coil locating ring and will be using it.how important is it to set timing ? does it make that much of a difference. i dont mind buying the tool if it will help my engines run better.thanks

    mn


    dave-bernard

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 2014
    Topics: 30
    #196901

    just set your points. you will be fine.


    frankr

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 6715
    Topics: 51
    #196906

    The timing fixture makes it possible to get the points set dead-on for ultimate timing accuracy between the magnets passing by the coil and points opening time. Points opening time is more important than the distance they open. Just setting them 0.020″ is “good enough”, depending on manufacturing variations and your skill. The tool is faster and easier, once you get through the learning curve.

    Conclusion: your choice.


    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3588
    Topics: 326
    #196907

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be

    basic concept….

    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂


    wrenchero

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 157
    Topics: 59
    #196910

    i watched the video.i understand how to adjust it and i think i’ll try it.the only thing i dont understand is where the armature plate has to be? full throttle?

    mn


    phil

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 199
    Topics: 19
    #196911

    Position of the armature doesn’t matter– it controls advance (spark relative to piston position). The cam, the magnet and the crankshaft/pistons are all locked together — you want to adjust the point gap at when the points are in contact with the highest spot on the cam (at least on MOST engines).

    http://www.omc-boats.org
    http://www.aerocraft-boats.org


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #196913

    i watched the video.i understand how to adjust it and i think i’ll try it.the only thing i dont understand is where the armature plate has to be? full throttle?

    OK, I think you are referring to the timing fixture tool that you would need in order to fine tune the ignition system timing….This is something I’m sure you don’t have…. Setting the points to .020″ on the high point of the cam is “good enough” to get the engine operating reasonably well….

    OK, I see what he did in the video…He used the flywheel to located the points instead of the timing fixture. But, your 3hp does not have any extra holes in the mag plate to pass that wire through for the ohm meter. The one thing the video does not show is the final running test using the timing light to confirm that what you set statically actually exists when the engine is running.

    This is a very fine adjustment that is easily affected afterwards. Just tightening the terminal screw on the points afterward can affect the point gap/timing slightly. Slop in the mag plate will surely affect the timing. Torqueing the flywheel can affect its position and running timing as well…New points should definitely be set to the “advanced side” of the small grid to compensate for initial rubbing block wear.

    I am certainly not downplaying the benefits of this fine timing procedure, but I think trying to do this will cause you more confusion and upset than it is worth. Set your points to .020″ on the high side of the cam, unless they are brand new points. Set the points to .022″ on the highest lobe of the cam if they are new to compensate for initial point rubbing block wear. I’m trying to remember if your flywheel has an access hole so the point gap can be checked with the flywheel installed, I’m thinking it does not. Once the points are set, rotate the crankshaft clockwise a few revolutions and recheck your work, just in case you were not on the highest point of the cam lobe. Be sure to spray a little electrical cleaner spray (that evaporates) between the point contacts when they are open to remove any oily/greasy residue left over.

    Again, be sure you don’t cross the coil primary leads to the wrong set of points, or the timing will be off and it won’t run. Be careful to properly locate the coil primary/condenser/coil ground leads to ensure they don’t rub on the inside of the flywheel or rotating crankshaft to avoid more problems once you get the engine running.

    • This reply was modified 4 years ago by fleetwin. Reason: addition

    wrenchero

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 157
    Topics: 59
    #196914

    thanks for info

    mn


    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3588
    Topics: 326
    #196923

    since they are not needed for the adjustment you can remove the condensers & you will have an extra 2 holes to fish some small 22-24 gauge wire out from under the plate ..for your ohmmeter to connect to

    one wire per point and measure to frame ground on the engine

    you can use a small light bulb or piezo buzzer in series with a small battery but the meter is better to measure to resistance across the point contacts …you should read just about 0 ohms closed ….anything much higher indicates dirty points which must be cleaned with acetone or carb cleaner soaked on a small piece of paper or business car

    🙁
    just woke up… you don’t really need any holes….if….with the flywheel off you can just access the points and use the “high cam position” to make your adjustments

    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

    • This reply was modified 4 years ago by crosbyman.
    • This reply was modified 4 years ago by crosbyman.

    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3588
    Topics: 326
    #196926

    see pictures…. if you are going to maintain oldies go to the url in the picture below above the red book

    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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