Johnson Electric Starting Junction Box

[outboardboy3]

When I push the button on the dash for my electric start, the motor doesn’t turn over, but instead I get clicking from the starter solenoid. Does this mean it’s bad? If so, what is a good replacement. Thanks.

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[opposedtwin]

Sure you aren’t hitting the choke button? You should hear a loud click from the electric choke.

If it is the start button giving you that click, try to isolate from where the click is coming. Is the starter drive bumping up to engage the flywheel? It should, but if your battery is weak, it may only click if there’s not enough juice to bump the starter drive.

[outboardboy3]

It is definitely coming from the solenoid, and the battery was fully charged.

[amuller]

You’re getting a repeated clicking? That usually means that when the solenoid energizes the starter, the voltage is pulled down so much that the solenoid releases and a cycle repeats… That is likely to be a weak battery or a high resistance connection somewhere. The innards of the box look in good condition, but appearances can be deceptive. Start at the battery and check everything, either with a meter or by taking each connection loose….

[outboardboy3]

I’m getting a repeated click each time after I press the button.

[crosbyman]

well the battery being fully charged it could be a bad selenoid or.. .a bad starter

have you tried jumping across the 2 fat red wires to see if the engine will turn over with the starter going full blast

use battery jumping cables and bridge the two fat red wires expect sparks when you bridge the 2 red wires

if it does not spin the starter it could be a bad starter make certain all connections are clean and solid

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[fleetwin]

Did that solenoid ever work correctly? Or, is this engine/rig/harness new to you? Continuous clicking from the solenoid usually means a bad connection or a bad battery. But, something about that solenoid does not look original, and it may be the wrong style which might explain why it does not work properly. Needless to say, If this solenoid worked "OK" previously, this theory can be ignored.
Please be careful if you are going to jump the large solenoid terminals, pretty easy to short the pliers to the junction box case which I’m pretty sure is grounded. If the engine cranks when the large solenoid terminals are shorted, that rules out the battery/starter and large cable connections.
If the engine does not crank with the large solenoid terminals shorted, then I would start by having the battery load tested, just cuz it’s charged doesn’t mean it is any good. Doing a voltage drop test with a decent anolog voltmeter might help pinpoint the problem also…

[frankr]

know how to use a voltmeter? Connect red meter lead to battery cable side of solenoid and black meter lead to starter cable side of solenoid. Should show battery voltage. Now with meter leads still connected, have somebody push the start button. The solenoid should click and the voltage should go to zero, or at least a very low reading. If it does, the solenoid is doing its job and problem lies elsewhere.

If it clicks and does not go to zero, there are several possibilities

[outboardboy3]

Ok, I will try that tomorrow. Just in case, is there a good replacement I could purchase?

[frankr]

Part number is 378444. Or Sierra Marine 18-5807. Do NOT go to the parts store and buy a car (Ford) solenoid. They look exactly alike but are different inside and will destroy the safety switch in a nano-second.

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