Johnson RDE-17R?

[wyo307]

Thank you for the great info guys! That part 303804 was replaced by 0321467 is this the current correct seal to replace it with?

Anything else I should look out for? Is the starter a 6V or a 12V system?

Here are some pictures sorry for the poor quality it is all I could get.

I am thinking that it is worth the risk for the money. At minimum I would end up with a boat I could use my RD-14 on (its just a little much for the 12ft sears). What do you guys think?

[lindy46]

Original was a 6 volt starter. Will work OK with a 12 volt battery – just don’t crank for too long. The 6 volt choke solenoid is another story – 12 volts will fry it.

[frankr]

Starter is 6V if original. You can tell a 6V starter by the band around the bottom of it. Also, a 12V starter will not fit the 6V bracket. Bolt hole spacing is different.

[wyo307]

Well I brought this old girl home with me. I couldn’t resist at $100 for boat motor and trailer. The boat I believe is a 1952 Larson 14′ commodore with the wood spray rails. There are virtually no dents anywhere on it and it is complete. The Motor has decent compression and is all there minus the cowling and wiring harness. It does have the original coils in it so obviously they are no good. I haven’t made it to the bottom crank shaft seal yet but I am assuming that that is original as well. The impeller is in tact but one fin is cracking so that will get replaced as well. The pressure tank is in good condition just needs a thorough cleaning and new hoses. The controls on the boat are evinrude simplex and the shifter lever has been poorly repaired at some point so I will need one of those as well.

For starters does anyone have the parts diagrams for the RDE-17 they are willing to share? I found one online for the RD but not the RDE.
Also what is the part number for the new coils, impeller, and crank shaft seal?
Are these motors to be run with 24:1 with plugs gaped at .030 and points at .020?
What is the flywheel torque?

Also for the starter on this motor there is no solenoid so I might as well convert it to a 12V system. I found this diagram online and looks to be fairly simple to do but does anyone have a part number for the electric choke solenoid that will withstand 12V?

Here are some pictures of the boat which is in surprising condition for 66 years old sitting in the elements.

Thank you all for your help!

[crosbyman]

nice boat !!

Selenoid wise ….may be able to just add a resistor (ballast) in series with the choke selenoid control wire.
That would drop the voltage down to 6 volts and keep it from frying.

If any AOMCI member could just measure the current draw at 6 volts in a working (operated) 6v selenoid it would be easy to calculate the true resistance value (while magnetized) Using V/I=R

EX: if a 6 volt supply draws .5 amps (while magnetized) that would would mean 12 ohms .

Any 12 ohm resistor capable of carrying .5 amps (as in the calculated example) wired in series with the selenoid will drop a 12volt supply down to 6 volts on the selenoid

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[wyo307]

So something like this:

What is the small #16 red wire for in the original drawing that goes from the hot side of the starter solenoid to the side post?

I would also like to add a kill switch, is that as simple as running a wire from each point to one side of a simple open/closed switch? When it is open it would run when it is closed the two points would short to each other killing it?

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

Kill switch is easy, one wire from each set of points, terminating at a momentary on switch

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[phil-b]

I’d be interested in knowing the resistance of a 6V solenoid. The 12V solenoid on my 1959 18HP is 2.2 ohms (draws 5.5A).

These pages:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thre … er.960278/
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/six12.htm

Say the Delco U1745 is a 1.5 ohm resistor rated at 4 Amps.

If the "ballast" and the choke have the same resistance, they will each see 6V (the ballast will be acting as a 24 Watt heater).

And if the combined load is 3 ohms (1.5 for the choke, 1.5 for the ballast), the circuit will draw (and the choke and ballast will each see) 4A (the rating for the ballast).

[Mumbles]

This six volt choke solenoid is giving a reading of 0.8 – 0.9 ohms. The leads read 0.1 ohm.

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[chris-p]

PM me with your email address and I can send you some manuals.

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