Johnson TD Project

[garry-in-michigan]

You may have to go to a SAE 40 wt. oil to get it to seal properly. Some knurl the skirt to enlarge it and have it hold more oil. Those small third port outboards are very sensitive to crankcase leakage at low speeds. Some won’t run with a propeller attached. With the carburetor next to the exhaust they can vapor lock in hot weather. When everything is right, there is no motor better. . .

[adam1961]

Hi Everyone,
I have been swamped with other duties, but this project is still advancing slowly.

The motor has one piston that has a scored area that I don’t like and the cylinders are heavily glazed. The crank is OK and one rod is a little rough for my liking. I managed to find a NOS powerhead for about what I would have expected to spend in parts….so that part will be taken care of.

My prop shaft has a deep wear grrove in the seal area. The most current substitute for the seal is about 1/2 of the width of the original. If i set it just into the bore, I think the seal will contact a different part of the shaft. Has anyone ever used epoxy to fill a wear groove on a otherwise good shaft?

Lloyd,
I will look you up in the directory and phone you to make arrangements for the primer seals.

Adam

[Buccaneer]

I tried JB Weld on a drive shaft seal groove, and it
help up about 5 minutes.
Speedi Sleeves are expensive, and never the right sizes!

Prepare to be boarded!

[adam1961]

Buccaneer,
Did you machine the worn area and give it some texture, or apply the JB to the smooth groove? I was thinking of JB or Devcon.

Adam

[Buccaneer]

adam1961 wrote:

Buccaneer,

Did you machine the worn area and give it some texture, or apply the JB to the smooth groove? I was thinking of JB or Devcon.

Adam

I slightly v’ed it out to give the JB more surface area.

Prepare to be boarded!

[chris-p]

These motors are so common, I would just look for a good replacement.

I cannot see JB Weld working here.

Better would be to weld it, then machine it down.

Adam….there are always a dozen TDs and TNs at our local meets!

[adam1961]

Chris,
I have been down this road a few times with “common stuff”. I have a starage building full of common motors that I have bought to get parts for my projects. The funny thing is that they all have common problems, LOL. I know what you mean. I just did not like the idea of buying 3-4 more TNs to get a good shaft. The free motor that I have is going to be the most over priced TN on the planet by the time i’m done with it. I found a good shaft that was already out.
I was givenn this motor with a P-30 that I bought. It was so ugly that the guy said I had to take it with the P-30. The tank must have been leaking at the seam, so someone cut a notch out of the back of the tank and installed a Techuseh snoblower tank across the back. I tried to haul it to the scrap on 2 occasions, but it just kept sneaking out of the pile. This will teach me LOL.

Has anyone ever has to re-rivet the fiber lining onto the pivot tube? It looks like the rivets were brass. I am gussing that I need to make something to fit up inside the tube to be able to work as a buck and peen the rivets over to hold the liner????

[adam1961]

What is the best replacement condensor for the 300153? They are .2 microfarad. Can the later 580170 be used or should I find a automotive interchange listed in the thread on caps?

[chris-p]

Adam,

The later 0.22 UFD condensors are fine. I use them all the time in the TDs and TNs.

[adam1961]

Chris,
I will do that. I didn’t think it would be an issue

Where is everyone buying their impellers for these?

Thanks

[Author]

Posts