Home Forum Ask A Member Johnson TN-28

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 28 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #182079
    tinkerman
    Participant

      US Member

      Well I looked back at the diagram and determined I had the wave washer on top and it should have been on bottom. Yes those are rub marks but everything is smooth now, except for the carb issues but I sllloooowwwweeeeddd down and put Lloyd’s washers in (should have done it to start with) gonna pick up some fiber washers for all the screws on the bottom of the carb and maybe see what happens Tommorrow. IDK the motor still seems a bit snug to me but we will see

      It's a jungle out there.

      #182080
      tinkerman
      Participant

        US Member

        And btw those were not rub marks on the coil lol that was trial and error mostly error

        It's a jungle out there.

        #182081
        tinkerman
        Participant

          US Member

          AND…… I’m still stumped on the second spring

          It's a jungle out there.

          #182089
          steveh
          Participant

            Those are the only two photos I have that show a spring. I moved recently and my motors are in storage right now. Otherwise, I’d pull it apart and advise. The TN was the first motor I did, so it’s been awhile and memory just doesn’t serve me well when it comes to spring locations…

            #182099
            crosbyman
            Participant

              Canada Member - 2 Years

              in pic #2 is that rub marks on the plate?

              I have receivednew coils with that edge worn must be built that way

              btw those capacitors don’t look new 🙁

              Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

              • This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by crosbyman.
              #182110
              tinkerman
              Participant

                US Member

                I know I know got em coming lol

                It's a jungle out there.

                #182147
                lloyd
                Participant

                  US Member

                  I don’t know about the spring on the right in the first photo, but the spring on the left looks like the neutral lever spring that mounts to the neutral lever bracket below the tank mounting bracket. Sorry I don’t have a photo, and your photos don’t show the location.
                  Also I noticed that it looks like your coils are mounted too far inside. The coil heels should be mounted so that the outside surface is exactly parallel with the flat surface on the magneto plate under the heels. This is to get the proper clearance from the heels to the flywheel magnets.for a good hot spark. A metal straight edge held vertical against the coil heel and the vertical flat on the magneto plate will help align the coil heels properly.

                  #182149
                  tinkerman
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Yes sir and I appreciate your comment as I put it together this evening and pulled and pulled and pulled some more. I had forgotten that I slid the coils way back trying to fix the rubbing problem…… probably why I only saw an occasional spark when I checked. Well all this is kind of a learning curve for me and I’m learning that the main thing is not to rush things trying to see the end result or the end result will be disappointing the one spring you are correct , it went on the neutral clutch lever. The other I’m almost certain is for the carb linkage just don’t know where to connect it

                    It's a jungle out there.

                    #182155
                    tinkerman
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Broke the starter rope ……. but was able to fix it …..broke the recoil spring may can fix it was right towards the end but I ordered a new one and if I’m able to repair the broke one I’ll keep it for a spare. NOW THE NEXT PROBLEM. When I put the flywheel on and just hand tighten the nut nothing seems to be hitting rubbing etc. but when I torque the nut down the spark advance won’t hardly move – if at all. I’ve pulled the flywheel “several” times now for the first thing or the other , to the point I’m probably gonna have to redrill and tap the three holes that go in the top of the flywheel. I didn’t seem to be having this problem til the last few times I pulled the flywheel (at least it wasn’t as noticeable to me. I can see on the armature plate and also on the flywheel where it’s rubbing but idk where the problem is. Is there a washer or shim that goes on top of the timing cam? I’m thinking no. What about under it? I may have to add one , I don’t see any other solution. According to what I see and what I understand the armature plate rotates independently of the flywheel when everything’s tight. The flywheel rests on the timing cam? The armature plate is mounted correctly …. as in the disk is mounted flat side up wave washer is under the disk , everything looks right . I’m starting to think this motor is cursed. It was seized when I got it so I spent some money on internals with the hope of making it like a new one , I’m beginning to wonder tho. It didn’t seem like the motor had seen much use in its life. The carb needles are razor sharp NO WEAR ……go figure

                      It's a jungle out there.

                      #182160
                      dave-bernard
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        the fly wheel seats on the taper not the cam. look at lowering the mag plate. I am more a mercury man not a OMC guy.

                      Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 28 total)
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.