Johnson TN-28

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  • tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #182079

    Well I looked back at the diagram and determined I had the wave washer on top and it should have been on bottom. Yes those are rub marks but everything is smooth now, except for the carb issues but I sllloooowwwweeeeddd down and put Lloyd’s washers in (should have done it to start with) gonna pick up some fiber washers for all the screws on the bottom of the carb and maybe see what happens Tommorrow. IDK the motor still seems a bit snug to me but we will see

    It's a jungle out there.


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #182080

    And btw those were not rub marks on the coil lol that was trial and error mostly error

    It's a jungle out there.


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #182081

    AND…… I’m still stumped on the second spring

    It's a jungle out there.


    steveh

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 127
    Topics: 26
    #182089

    Those are the only two photos I have that show a spring. I moved recently and my motors are in storage right now. Otherwise, I’d pull it apart and advise. The TN was the first motor I did, so it’s been awhile and memory just doesn’t serve me well when it comes to spring locations…


    crosbyman

    Canada Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 3587
    Topics: 326
    #182099

    in pic #2 is that rub marks on the plate?

    I have receivednew coils with that edge worn must be built that way

    btw those capacitors don’t look new 🙁

    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

    • This reply was modified 4 years, 7 months ago by crosbyman.

    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #182110

    I know I know got em coming lol

    It's a jungle out there.


    lloyd

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 453
    Topics: 4
    #182147

    I don’t know about the spring on the right in the first photo, but the spring on the left looks like the neutral lever spring that mounts to the neutral lever bracket below the tank mounting bracket. Sorry I don’t have a photo, and your photos don’t show the location.
    Also I noticed that it looks like your coils are mounted too far inside. The coil heels should be mounted so that the outside surface is exactly parallel with the flat surface on the magneto plate under the heels. This is to get the proper clearance from the heels to the flywheel magnets.for a good hot spark. A metal straight edge held vertical against the coil heel and the vertical flat on the magneto plate will help align the coil heels properly.


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #182149

    Yes sir and I appreciate your comment as I put it together this evening and pulled and pulled and pulled some more. I had forgotten that I slid the coils way back trying to fix the rubbing problem…… probably why I only saw an occasional spark when I checked. Well all this is kind of a learning curve for me and I’m learning that the main thing is not to rush things trying to see the end result or the end result will be disappointing the one spring you are correct , it went on the neutral clutch lever. The other I’m almost certain is for the carb linkage just don’t know where to connect it

    It's a jungle out there.


    tinkerman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 312
    Topics: 54
    #182155

    Broke the starter rope ……. but was able to fix it …..broke the recoil spring may can fix it was right towards the end but I ordered a new one and if I’m able to repair the broke one I’ll keep it for a spare. NOW THE NEXT PROBLEM. When I put the flywheel on and just hand tighten the nut nothing seems to be hitting rubbing etc. but when I torque the nut down the spark advance won’t hardly move – if at all. I’ve pulled the flywheel “several” times now for the first thing or the other , to the point I’m probably gonna have to redrill and tap the three holes that go in the top of the flywheel. I didn’t seem to be having this problem til the last few times I pulled the flywheel (at least it wasn’t as noticeable to me. I can see on the armature plate and also on the flywheel where it’s rubbing but idk where the problem is. Is there a washer or shim that goes on top of the timing cam? I’m thinking no. What about under it? I may have to add one , I don’t see any other solution. According to what I see and what I understand the armature plate rotates independently of the flywheel when everything’s tight. The flywheel rests on the timing cam? The armature plate is mounted correctly …. as in the disk is mounted flat side up wave washer is under the disk , everything looks right . I’m starting to think this motor is cursed. It was seized when I got it so I spent some money on internals with the hope of making it like a new one , I’m beginning to wonder tho. It didn’t seem like the motor had seen much use in its life. The carb needles are razor sharp NO WEAR ……go figure

    It's a jungle out there.


    dave-bernard

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 2014
    Topics: 30
    #182160

    the fly wheel seats on the taper not the cam. look at lowering the mag plate. I am more a mercury man not a OMC guy.

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 28 total)
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