KE-4 Rocket ?s

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This topic contains 62 replies, has 22 voices, and was last updated by RICHARD A. WHITE RICHARD A. WHITE 1 year, 11 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 63 total)
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    wyo307

    Replies: 141
    Topics: 39
    #49082

    Thank you for the links guys!

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    wedgie
    Canada Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 963
    Topics: 94
    #49085

    Check wnyaomci website for parts manuals.

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    wyo307

    Replies: 141
    Topics: 39
    #49087

    Ok here are some more pictures of my new motor. Upon initial inspection it appears to be in complete original condition. There are just s couple very small dings in the tank and cowlings and a few scrapes here or there but that is it. From everything that I have seen online in my research my tiller grip appears to be incorrect is that right? I will have to replace the pull starter handle as well as the impeller I am assuming and maybe something in the mag plate but we will see when we get there. Is 95psi of compression adequate for this motor? Once again thank you to everyone for the help!





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    betty-ann-bernardd

    Replies: 163
    Topics: 2
    #49088

    tiller handle is correct. some hade a screwdriver in the handle try to unscrew the rubber part. that would be a bonus. great motor I had one back in the day. should have the phelon mag good. handle can be had at oldmercs.com

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    garry-in-tampa
    Lifetime Member
    Replies: 2955
    Topics: 29
    #49092

    I believe they all had a screw driver in the tiller (like the ’48 to ’51 Evinrude Sportwin and ’50 through ’53 Fleetwin) but if they were not unscrewed and lubricoted periodically they freeze up like they are welded. I have broken several Evinrude tiller handles trying to unscrew the screwdriver. . . 😮

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    betty-ann-bernardd

    Replies: 163
    Topics: 2
    #49101

    the screwdriver was a option on the mercs.

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    wyo307

    Replies: 141
    Topics: 39
    #49115

    Ok well I took it apart a ways yesterday just to see what I have to work with and it came apart too easy. All of the screws holding the tank and cowlings together weren’t even hand tight. The flywheel nut also wasn’t very tight, the mag plate itself was loose, one spark plug wasn’t even hand tight and the other is stuck. Anyways I really just wanted to see what the coils looked like so that is where I went first. What does everyone think of these? Why would they do this? The seller said there was spark on one cylinder but not the other which makes since because one of the points is gummed up enough it is stuck open. Will these need replaced or just cleaned up?



    I will check on the screw driver grip as well.

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    dave-bernard
    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 813
    Topics: 10
    #49116

    WOW that is clean points . replace the condensers . check the coils and wash if OK they may be good. replace the plug wires would be what I would do. if the coils are bad replace them.

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    wyo307

    Replies: 141
    Topics: 39
    #49122

    What kind of a reading should I expect from the coils if they are good on the secondary winding?

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    betty-ann-bernardd

    Replies: 163
    Topics: 2
    #49134

    on the tiller handles the screw driver one is shorter than the standard one.

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    chinewalker
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 434
    Topics: 17
    #49137

    If the coils aren’t cracked, they may actually work! Clean them up and take a look. Clean the points to bright metal – or replace with new if you’d rather. Condensers are a known weak spot, I usually replace them with OMC versions that fit with minor modifications.

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    green-thumbs
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 292
    Topics: 35
    #49138

    If it ain’t broke don’t fix it until it is. Clean and set the points and put it back together and
    see what kind of spark you get. If the magneto does
    what is expected of it no need to spend time or money on it at this time.

    Screwdriver in handle listed in Kiekhaefer Mercury Outboard Motor Accessories
    as M-40-2074 @ $5.41 An expensive dodad in early 1950s dollars…minimum wage was
    in 50 to 75 cent range then. The same money spent on a couple screwdrivers (+ & -)
    and some other small items such as a spark plug wrench and a couple spare plugs
    would have been more useful.

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    chuckw
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 58
    Topics: 4
    #49143

    I f I were you I would not mess around with those coils. Get replacements from Jim Judkins and replace the condensers. Clean up the points. Replace the crank seals top and bottom. Coils may give spark , but under load after they get warm and underway they may fail. Better safe than sorry on the lake.

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    opposedtwin
    US Member - 1 Year
    Replies: 582
    Topics: 195
    #49155

    +1 on what chuckw said!

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    wyo307

    Replies: 141
    Topics: 39
    #49168

    Ok so I tested the coils last night and both seem to be in decent working shape. I tested between the points and the plug leads and got readings in the 6-7 ohms on each of them. Then from the points to ground and it buried the needle. This motor will never be used for real boating applications just a quick buzz around the lake maybe a few times each year, so I think that I will clean and reset the points and put it back together and see what happens. If I experience some issues down the road with it not performing as it should then I will get back in there and start replacing stuff but if It runs well enough for what I want to do there is no reason to drop upwards of $100 on new coils and condensers.

    I did check the tiller and it doesn’t have the screw driver grip…..darn.

    I also thought that I was missing the throttle return spring but it turns out that it was just gummed up enough that it wasn’t moving so that is good. I may be able to get away with just replacing the impeller and then I’ll have a runner on my hands. This motor is number two or three in line after my RDE is finished so it will likely be spring before I can get to her.

    Once again thank you everyone for all of the help I am amazed at the knowledge people on here have about these old things.

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