Canada Member - 1 Year
Topics: 94December 12, 2016 at 9:36 pm #49085
Check wnyaomci website for parts manuals.December 12, 2016 at 10:10 pm #49087
Ok here are some more pictures of my new motor. Upon initial inspection it appears to be in complete original condition. There are just s couple very small dings in the tank and cowlings and a few scrapes here or there but that is it. From everything that I have seen online in my research my tiller grip appears to be incorrect is that right? I will have to replace the pull starter handle as well as the impeller I am assuming and maybe something in the mag plate but we will see when we get there. Is 95psi of compression adequate for this motor? Once again thank you to everyone for the help!December 12, 2016 at 11:13 pm #49088
tiller handle is correct. some hade a screwdriver in the handle try to unscrew the rubber part. that would be a bonus. great motor I had one back in the day. should have the phelon mag good. handle can be had at oldmercs.com
Topics: 29December 12, 2016 at 11:49 pm #49092
I believe they all had a screw driver in the tiller (like the ’48 to ’51 Evinrude Sportwin and ’50 through ’53 Fleetwin) but if they were not unscrewed and lubricoted periodically they freeze up like they are welded. I have broken several Evinrude tiller handles trying to unscrew the screwdriver. . . 😮
December 13, 2016 at 3:32 am #49101
the screwdriver was a option on the mercs.December 13, 2016 at 2:14 pm #49115
Ok well I took it apart a ways yesterday just to see what I have to work with and it came apart too easy. All of the screws holding the tank and cowlings together weren’t even hand tight. The flywheel nut also wasn’t very tight, the mag plate itself was loose, one spark plug wasn’t even hand tight and the other is stuck. Anyways I really just wanted to see what the coils looked like so that is where I went first. What does everyone think of these? Why would they do this? The seller said there was spark on one cylinder but not the other which makes since because one of the points is gummed up enough it is stuck open. Will these need replaced or just cleaned up?
I will check on the screw driver grip as well.
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 10December 13, 2016 at 2:24 pm #49116
WOW that is clean points . replace the condensers . check the coils and wash if OK they may be good. replace the plug wires would be what I would do. if the coils are bad replace them.December 13, 2016 at 4:21 pm #49122
What kind of a reading should I expect from the coils if they are good on the secondary winding?December 13, 2016 at 9:13 pm #49134
on the tiller handles the screw driver one is shorter than the standard one.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 17December 13, 2016 at 9:53 pm #49137
If the coils aren’t cracked, they may actually work! Clean them up and take a look. Clean the points to bright metal – or replace with new if you’d rather. Condensers are a known weak spot, I usually replace them with OMC versions that fit with minor modifications.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 35December 13, 2016 at 11:03 pm #49138
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it until it is. Clean and set the points and put it back together and
see what kind of spark you get. If the magneto does
what is expected of it no need to spend time or money on it at this time.
Screwdriver in handle listed in Kiekhaefer Mercury Outboard Motor Accessories
as M-40-2074 @ $5.41 An expensive dodad in early 1950s dollars…minimum wage was
in 50 to 75 cent range then. The same money spent on a couple screwdrivers (+ & -)
and some other small items such as a spark plug wrench and a couple spare plugs
would have been more useful.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 4December 14, 2016 at 12:07 am #49143
I f I were you I would not mess around with those coils. Get replacements from Jim Judkins and replace the condensers. Clean up the points. Replace the crank seals top and bottom. Coils may give spark , but under load after they get warm and underway they may fail. Better safe than sorry on the lake.
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 195December 14, 2016 at 4:13 am #49155
+1 on what chuckw said!December 14, 2016 at 2:23 pm #49168
Ok so I tested the coils last night and both seem to be in decent working shape. I tested between the points and the plug leads and got readings in the 6-7 ohms on each of them. Then from the points to ground and it buried the needle. This motor will never be used for real boating applications just a quick buzz around the lake maybe a few times each year, so I think that I will clean and reset the points and put it back together and see what happens. If I experience some issues down the road with it not performing as it should then I will get back in there and start replacing stuff but if It runs well enough for what I want to do there is no reason to drop upwards of $100 on new coils and condensers.
I did check the tiller and it doesn’t have the screw driver grip…..darn.
I also thought that I was missing the throttle return spring but it turns out that it was just gummed up enough that it wasn’t moving so that is good. I may be able to get away with just replacing the impeller and then I’ll have a runner on my hands. This motor is number two or three in line after my RDE is finished so it will likely be spring before I can get to her.
Once again thank you everyone for all of the help I am amazed at the knowledge people on here have about these old things.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.