April 3, 2017 at 2:21 pm #55444
Ok well I have been able to get back to this project after the parts washer got fixed. I was able to disassemble everything and clean and reassemble the mid section of the motor. Then I went over to the lower unit after scratching my head for a while on how to make a tool to remove the plate covering the impeller it finally hit me. I took the center out of my puller and slid it over the prop shaft and then inserted appropriately sized two drill bits into the holes then just tapped it out with a hammer. Worked like a charm. The impeller seems to be in good condition, along with everything else, so I think I will just run with it. My next question is the piece that is behind the impeller has two holes that are similar but they are threaded. Does this piece get pressed in or is it threaded in like the other plate? I am just trying to figure out if I need to pull it out or unscrew it. If I had to guess I need to pull it. Also once I have cleaned everything in the lower unit what type of lube do these little guys take?
I am also going to need to buy some of the exhaust gaskets for this motor that tore when I took it apart. Anyone have a good source for those? Or should I just take the time to make them myself?
Thank you all for the help, with this being my first "old" merc there has been a bit of a learning curve
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 155April 3, 2017 at 3:07 pm #55448
105 or J.D. Corn Head Grease.
These are the tools I
made to work on them.
Topics: 8April 3, 2017 at 8:24 pm #55466
This wrench with 2 rods is a really nice idea !
Not only for a Mercury, but I’m sure it can be useful for some other projects.April 3, 2017 at 10:16 pm #55472
The part the impeller fits into is the water pump cartridge…several things to keep in mind
1) cartridge is oriented (or clocked) to match water intake and outlet…
2) cartridge is a friction fit in gear housing
3) seal is on front or gear side of cartridge
4) although the tool to remove cartridge probably worked when motor was new it is not unusual
to find threads pulled out or corroded
5) often the only way to remove water pump cartridge is to clamp prop shaft in vise
and beat on the gear case so the prop shaft assembly and water pump cartridge
come out together…messy and you have to protect prop shaft and be careful not
to damage gear case. If you do this be careful to note position and orientation of
shims seal ring rubber ring so you can put everything back where they belongs inside.
Gear case can be source of frustration but like everything else with the right parts,
the right touch and the right understanding all can be made right. Sometimes
easier to go with a better lower unit as some parts a little up there.
.April 4, 2017 at 1:18 pm #55527
Thank you guys for the information! Like I said there is definitely a learning curve with the Merc vs the omc stuff I am used to.
Last night I had some success in disassembling the lower unit. I was able to pull the cartridge out and then the prop shaft and bearing. The thing that actually fought me the most was the gear on the end of the drive shaft was stuck on there pretty good but after a while I got it to pop loose. I can now clean and service everything before putting it back together. This gear case along with the rest of the motor is in great shape I just want to do it right and service everything while I am in there. I find it interesting the different approaches that the different companies used when designing a motor. Being an engineer myself I can kind of see into the designers head a bit when going through a motor like this.
Now my next question is about the water jackets. I haven’t planed on pulling the cylinders because the compression is good (both in the mid 90s) but I dont see an easy way to clean off the rust and scaling from the outside of the cylinder heads and the inside of the water jackets without removing them. Does anyone have any suggestions for me on how to go about getting all of that crap out of there while keeping the crankcase together? If I have to take the heads off I would go ahead and hone it and put new rings in but if I can avoid it I would like to.
Thank you all again for you help
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 155April 4, 2017 at 1:35 pm #55530quote nali:
I believe it was jw in dixie who first shared this trick.
It was years ago but it impressed me enough
that it stayed with me. Works really well.
Topics: 33April 4, 2017 at 4:21 pm #55540quote Wyo307:
Hopefully one of the many with more experience will chime in here. Personally with compression as good as what you have, I would hate to pull the cylinders apart.April 4, 2017 at 5:04 pm #55542quote kirkp:
I agree but I don’t know how I am going to clean out all the crap from the water jackets without pulling them.
RICHARD A. WHITE
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 132April 4, 2017 at 5:31 pm #55544
If the crud can be dissolved by some type of citrus fluid,or any other fluid, you might attempt to flush it …. just finding the correct and proper fluid that wont damage the block
firstname.lastname@example.orgApril 4, 2017 at 6:50 pm #55548
KE4 / Mark 7 are what we would now call modular design motors, that is, they are built up from several distinct components. Good in that individual components can be accessed and changed it need be and bad in that care must be taken when assembling to make sure all gaskets are in place and will seal joints to prevent leakage. You find out if you have done it right when you start it up engine. Either leaks or it doesn’t. Fortunately until the gasket
sealant sets up engine can be disassembled and situation corrected. Usually without damaging gaskets so they can be reused. Electric hair dryer on high may help soften
not yet set up sealant to save gaskets.
Corrosion of the aluminum/zinc alloy water jackets is normally not a problem with motors
operated in fresh water. Salt or polluted water especially if left on boat will chew up the
jackets. Propeller and lower unit will reflect this also. A corroded and pitted propeller
likely means similar condition with water jackets. JB Weld can be used to repair pitted
interior of water jackets if not excessive.
If the cast iron cylinders are heavily corroded they can be removed and bead blasted to
bright metal and reused. When installing cylinder on pistons be sure ends of all three rings
center on the locating pin on piston….you have to get that right…if engine turns over tight
it could be ring is riding on locating pin…take it apart and start over. Note how motor
turns over before working on it so you will have a reference "feel" for how it should be after reassembly.
If you intend to do a complete tear down remove rings from pistons before removing piston
pin…failure to do so can lead to damage to piston and rings…this is a "do it right or do not
do it." The Kiekhaefer KE4 & Mark 7 were well proven designs with a gearfoot strong enough to be used with larger and more powerful KE7, KF7,KG7 and KG4. Condition of a KE4
Mark 7 will reflect prior use and care. An original untouched powerhead and gear foot will have the same seals and bearings it left the factory with in late 1940s early 1950s. If you are
lucky there will be no serious wear or corrosion issues to crankshaft. driveshaft or propshaft
Sometimes there are and you will either have to live with what you find or find something
better…a parts motor is a good thing to have around.
Topics: 9April 4, 2017 at 7:21 pm #55549
If you have a picture I would like to see the condition of the water jackets. I’ve had these ke4/Mk7 come to life without cleaning them internally and they cool very well.
Topics: 8April 4, 2017 at 8:32 pm #55552
Why not Evaporust ? A bit expensive, but it seems to be the ideal choice in this case, since it doesn’t hurt anything but rust.April 5, 2017 at 2:03 pm #55611
I will try to take a picture of what I am talking about today and post it up so that everyone can see what I am talking about. I really would rather not crack the crankcase open if I can avoid it.
I like the Evaporust Idea.April 5, 2017 at 7:00 pm #55627
Best way to learn is by doing. Practice on a motor you can not hurt. There are more than a few
stuck, broken or missing parts KE4 Mark 7 around. Usually you can salvage some parts…sometimes even a part you might need…someday. You might learn a little by
looking thru past files and photos on Jason’s Wizard site. Western Auto bought outboards
from Kiekhaefer from 1940 to 1957 so the two brands share basics at least. Although there
is no Wizard version of KE4 Mark 7. I have a Mark 7 with a KE4 serial number…dealer sent in tag and factory sent new id tag so dealer could sell as a current model…I also have
a first run KE4 with early KD4 pistons, rods and cylinders….factory did not waste good
parts and it is shown that way in parts manual.
Anyway I once shared you reluctance to delve into matters I did not understand. If you are
not comfortable with it don’t do it. If you can not resist the urge to wrench, have at it.
You will break things and or find things already broke that you will have to parts chase.
It is all part of the fun if you look at things that way.
LouisApril 5, 2017 at 7:03 pm #55628
Here is what I am wanting to clean up. I realize this doesn’t have any affect on the cooling ability of the motor but I would like to clean it up while I am in there instead of leaving it. These are the tops of the heads and the insides of the two water jackets. There is just surface rust on everything from it not being in use for who knows how long. Unless anyone has a better suggestion I think I will be going with nali’s suggestion of the Evaporust because I can just submerge the heads in it with old spark plugs in it and there shouldn’t ever be any get into the crank case that way. I can also just toss the water jackets in a container of that stuff for a while and it should take care of it.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.