Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Mcculloch 4hp no start
- This topic has 132 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 7 months ago by joesnuffy.
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May 6, 2018 at 10:52 pm #75471
@joesnuffy. So if I understand you correctly, turn and pull the wire from the coil and it will come out? Then look to see if it is burned or whatnot? Do I just reverse steps to reinstall said wire into coil? Also what do i secure wire with?
Also I am not quite sure why my name hasn’t shown up red yet? Hmmmm.
I was a member since 1983 and I had to ask the website administrator to make it red. Once I did that, it was no problem. Done very quickly, once I asked.
Long live American manufacturing!
May 6, 2018 at 11:21 pm #75472May 7, 2018 at 11:50 am #75493John,
Most actual vintage techumseh coils the ignition wire is removable and replaceable. You know what a wood screw looks like their is a spike where the ignition wire goes into the coil right in the center that is what holds the wire inside the coil. Here is a video of how to replace ignition wires and what the spike looks like. I have replaced a lot of ignition wires on older outboard motors it almost always makes them run better if not it at least gives me piece of mind that the ignition wires are good and I’m not loosing spark through cracked wires. This is true especially when trying to figure out whats wrong. I normally buy a entire roll of the 7mm copper strand inside wire which lasts me a while but in your case you may just need a foot or 2 napa most likely sells copper strand ignition wire by the foot. Marine engine does sell it by the foot.hope that helps,
Joe
Replace ignition wires outboard
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEg63iRdjH4Ignition wire by the foot
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/pa … OMC0772584May 7, 2018 at 5:54 pm #75510Yeah I ended up finding some at a local auto shop. Napa, advance auto and Autozone didn’t carry it. I was surprised.
May 8, 2018 at 1:37 am #75530Eureka!!!!!!
I want to that everyone for their help! She runs!!! Nick Kramp emailed me and gave me a few more points. Turns out the lasts few problems were a spark plug wire, wire clip, and a weak magnet on the flywheel. The donor motor was worth its weight in gold!!!
Much thanks
May 8, 2018 at 1:49 am #75531OUTSTANDING!! I’ve followed this thread since your original posting and know it’s been a frustrating process. That’s the great part about this forum – lots of folks who are willing to share their experiences and help solve a problem. I’m sure it was exciting when it finally fired off! How about posting a video of it running?
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."May 8, 2018 at 1:56 am #75532Sure will. I have to put the lower unit back on and get a tub of water for it
May 8, 2018 at 2:11 am #75534Now that it runs, anyone know how to get a big dent out of a gas tank?
May 8, 2018 at 3:22 am #75539Never done it myself but here’s an article I saw some time ago about removing dents by pressurizing the tank and applying heat around the dent to make it pop out. Obviously want to be sure the tank is totally clean of any fuel or fuel vapors.
https://conductorjonz.wordpress.com/201 … sea-horse/
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."May 8, 2018 at 12:09 pm #75545Congrats, That to me is the best feeling when you work on a motor that challenges you and when you finally get it right wow its terrific.
Joe 😀
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