Merc 200

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    #9960

    I got the gearcase off the ’69 200 but first I thought I’d drain the oil or water out of it. Instead of oil, white powder came out. Is this normal on the Mercs as I’ve seen it before on smaller ones? :mrgreen:

    The prop is frozen onto the shaft but after marinating it and beating on it with a lead hammer, at least the prop shaft turns now but the prop doesn’t want to budge. On the bright side, the powerhead is free and I just about yanked my shoulder out of its socket roping it over! This thing has compression! 😯 If I get brave, maybe I’ll hook a garden hose up to it and try starting it on the stand later.

    I’m also starting to regret giving away a ’65 20 horse last summer. Some parts off it might have come in handy right about now.


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    billw

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 2071
    Topics: 66
    #76275

    That’s John Deere Corn Head Powder. Be okay. No, you’re in for a fun little challenge. There may not be a single internal part of that lower unit that is any good, and that’s perfectly normal for a pre-’76 merc. Okay, maybe the clutch is still okay… They made a heck of a clutch. They will NEVER jump out of gear like an OMC.

    Edit: Okay, not perfectly "normal," but very, very common.

    Long live American manufacturing!


    20mercman

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 613
    Topics: 23
    #76333

    Well obviously that lower unit will pose a challenge. With that much rust, who knows what you will have. As for the drive shaft, it will need work in the seal area. Obviously either salt exposure or a lot of soaking! In any event, no reason to give up hope. Keep soaking the prop, it may need to be pulled off, and that will most likely wreck the hub. These 9P props are generally the better choice on a 200, so don’t give up too quickly. Once the prop is off, you can remove the bearing carrier. I made a tool by welding 4 pieces of key stock to a piece of pipe. This works fantastic for removing the nut. Don’t break the nut, as they are hard to come by. Use heat on the lower unit area around the nut if it is tight. Once you have the nut off, place the prop shaft in a vice, and with a block of wood to protect the housing, drive the housing off of the prop shaft. The whole prop shaft assembly will come out of the lower unit. The forward gear and the pinion will remain in the lower unit. There is a cam following pin for shifting that sits in the forward end of the prop shaft. This may fall out or stay with the shaft. Just don’t loose it by not knowing it’s there and it falls under the bench.. Then place the drive shaft into a vice, there will be a tab washer on the 9/16 nut that holds the pinion on. Bend the tab over so you can get the 9/16" wrench on the pinion nut squarely. The head on this bolt is thin, so make sure you have a good grip on it and your wrench is square to the bolt. It will be tight. Once you have removed the bolt, the drive shaft can be removed much like the prop shaft. (Remove the water pump assembly first, and then with the drive shaft in a vice, protect the housing with a block of wood, and drive the lower unit off of the drive shaft. The pinion gear will drop out as the drive shaft is removed. Note the shims under the water pump assembly, and under the upper ball bearing, and return them when going back together. Finally, with the drive shaft removed, the forward gear can be removed by placing a block of wood on a hard bench and squarely striking the lower unit open end( prop shaft end) on the block of wood. This will cause the forward gear to fall out of the front of the housing. The shift shaft and cam will be the only things left in the housing at this time. The shift shaft retainer is held into place by a set screw on the right side of the retainer. This is a small square drive screw and once you loosen it, the shift shaft can be removed. Note which side the shift cam mounts inside the lower unit prior to removing it. (not a big deal, we can help later) Assess what you have and post your results.

    Steve

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