Mercury KF7 Super 10 Bearing Question – UPDATED!!

[chinewalker]

Thanks Steve. This is one of the best things about this hobby – turning a bucket of what most would see as scrap metal into a working motor with (relatively) minimal investment! This was literally, a basket case!

[chinewalker]

Got a little bit done today. New bearings came – the RIGHT ones. Installed no problem! Also cut gaskets for the powerhead.

[chinewalker]

Finished assembling the powerhead yesterday. Good pop now!

[jeff-register]

Scott,
I own a KF7 & it’s a great runner. The KG7 is faster but I enjoy both motors. Be careful with the lower shroud for the KE7, They are two piece, not one like the KFG7 motors.

[david-bartlett]

Old thread, but I have a chance to pick up a KF-7 Super 10 for cheap. Looks to be only missing the lower cowls, but I am not a Merc guy so I may need some other stuff too.

I will follow up if it comes my way.

[chinewalker]

A follow up to my thread of this Spring – got the KF7 running this weekend after finally getting around to ordering a Bendix coil. It’s more of an amalgamation of parts than a true KF7, as sharp-eyed Merc heads will notice the short tiller – indicating it is a KE7 mid.

In addition to the ignition, I cleaned up a carb for it, too. Had to modify a cork float, sealed in CA glue to work as the original was shot. Also snapped one of the compression nuts on the fuel line – split it right down the side and I wasn’t even torquing it down much.

In any case, it runs well! Anyone have any extra T-pins for the cowling? Mine lacks the rearmost three pins.

[20mercman]

Scott;

Great to see this fine machine out on the water! I think it looks great!

Jeff, you are correct, or at least I believe, it is a KE-7 tower assembly. As long as you are using the tower and foot as a package, the drive shaft length will be correct and you will get enough crankshaft engagement. I think it is a blast to build a motor from the spare parts pile. For all intents and purposes, this is more a KE-7 than an F, but so what? The KF-7 was a transition motor, bridging the gap between the KE-7 and the KG-7. The KF-7 had the same transom clamp as the KE-7, but used the longer drive shaft housing and the friction disc pack in the prop hub. The KF/KG shared the same lower unit, water pump and drive shaft housing. Some early KG’s also used the old style transom clamps before they went with the forged clamps. The KE/KF shared the same power head with the 4 reed block, but with a different carburetor. AJ-19 vs. AJ-29. Service parts later suggested the AJ-29 for replacement for the AJ-19. Also the Magneto was upgraded to the oval style Bendix/Scintilla magneto with the KF-7. The other difference was the use of curved transfer port covers on the KF block vs. the flat steel plate on the early KE blocks. All 3 of my KE-7’s have the updated transfer port covers, although my original motor did come with the flat plate. Fun things to build and contemplate the differences!

Steve

[chinewalker]

Steve – I put curved transfer covers on this one, too. It has the AJ29 carb. Mag plate I think came from the KE7, as it has the flapper points and shrouded magnet – no bakelite cover. If I stumble into a KF7/KG7 lower, I’ll swap it around easy enough…

[jeff-register]

Steve,
What I noticed was the shape of the cav plate. The KE7 prop shaft was smooth as well adding much selection to prop sizes. The clutch pack is a real pain to me.
Steve, main reason is I brought it up was using a KFG7 driveshaft in a KE7 tower allows the use of a 22 inch motor on the KE7 tower. The short tower & long shaft allows full engagement of the rat rod motor. Using the KE7 gears & prop shaft allows a race prop with more pitch to be used with the smooth shaft prop shaft. Also in Scott’s case a KE7 tower is better as he runs .5" shallower & again have a better selection of props with the smooth shaft. Only down side is the forward prop shaft bearing is smaller which may fail easier. The KE7 flywheel must be in place to set the points which makes the use of a degree wheel impossable. I prefer the KF, KG, KH type flywheel as timing is much easier to adjust.
Also the 19 was very close to the A.J. 28, check sizing & jet sizes but the AJ19 was a pain to keep in tune. Many went to the 29 for this reason.
Then a guy can swap reed blocks & have 8 reeds with a KE7 motor too. All kinds of fun to be had building a green tanker huh! 😀 Easier to build a sleeper
Jeff

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